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THE WILEY TECHNICAL SERIES 

FOR 

VOCATIONAL AND INDUSTRIAL SCHOOLS 



EDITED BY 

JOSEPH M. JAMESON 

QIRABD COLLEGE 



THE WILEY TECHNICAL SERIES 

EDITED BY 

JOSEPH I\L JAMESON 



TEXT BOOKS IN AGRICI LTIRE 

NOW READY 

Market Gardening. liy F. L. Yeaw, Manager, 
Oasis Farm and Orchard Company. Roswell, N. M. 
Formerly Professor of Market Gardening, Mas- 
sachusetts Agricnltural College, vi+120 pages, 
5 by 7. 36 figures. Cloth, 75 cents net. 

Studies of Tree.s: Their Diseases and Care. Hy 
J. J. Levison, Dei)artment of Parks, Urooklvn. 
N. Y. .5'4 by 8. x +2.53 pages. 1.56 half-tone 
illustrations. Cloth, $1.60 net. (Al.-^o 8 by lO,'-... 
loose leaf.) 

.Agricultural Drafting. By Ch.\rles B. Howe, Bush- 
wick Evening High School, Borough of Brooklyn. 
New York, N. Y. viii -1-63 pages, 8 by 10^. 4.5 
figures, 26 plates. Cloth, $1.25 net. 

E.veroi.ses ill Farm Dairying. By Professor C. 
Larsen, Department of Dairy Husbandry, South 
Dakota State College. Loose leaf, 8 by lu'j. 09 
Exercises. Single Exercises two cents each. (Com- 
plete, $1.00 net. 

READY IN SEPTEMBER. 1915 

Farm Crops and Soils. By Professor A. G. .McCai.l, 
Ohio State University. 

Agricultural Chemistry. By Professor T. E. Keitt. 
C'lemson Agricultural College. 

Injurious Insects. By Dean E. D. Sanderson and 
Professor L. M. Peairs, West Virginia University. 

I'or full announcement see list following index. 
IM- 0/10/15 



MARKET GARDENING 



BY 

F. L. YEAW 

Manager, Oasis Farm and Orchard Company, Ruswell. New Mexico 

Formerly Professor of Market Gardening, 

Massachusetts Agricultural College 



FIRST EDITION 

FIRST THOUSAND 



NEW YORK 

JOHN WILEY & SONS, Inc. 

London: CHAPMAN & HALL: Limited 

1915 



4>AK- 



(-■npyright, :yi5 
F, L. VEAW 



THE SCIENTIFIC PRESS 

ROBERT DRUMMOND AND COMPANY 

BROOKLYN. NY 

JUN 25 1915 

©CI.A4U1517 



PREFACE 



The income from the sale of vegetables is practically 
twice that produced from the great fruit industries of the 
country. Only recently, however, is Market Gardening 
receiving the attention that it merits as a subject in which 
valuable instruction may be given in our schools. 

The purpose of this little manual is to furnish, in a con- 
densed and usable form, information concerning methods 
and best practices for growing and marketing the com- 
moner vegetables. It is designed primarily for use as 
an elementary text on market gardening. 

Methods for the propagation, preparation of the soil 
for, planting, cultivation, harvesting and marketing of 
twenty-tliree of the more connnon and hardy vegetables 
are considered in detail. In addition, such information 
is given concerning soils, fertilizers, moisture requirements, 
seeds, germination, the preparation and care of hot beds 
and the storing and packing of vegetables as is necessary 
to a reasonably complete understanding of the whole 
problem. A special chapter is devoted to the location, 
planning and care of home and school gardens. 

Growers of vegetables in a small way for the home 
table, as well as those engaged in market gardening on 
a commercial scale, it is believed, will find this a practical, 
reliable and handy guide. 

F. L. Yeaw. 

ROSWELL, N. M. 

April, 1915. 

iii 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER I 

Location for the Market Garden. Cultivation 

PAGE 

Market — Soil — Exposure — Labor — -Water — Tools — Cultivation. . . 1 

CHAPTER II 

Fertilizers 

Stable Manures — Composting — Chemical Fertilizers— Nitrogen — 
Nitrate of Soda — Potash — Phosphoric Acid — Complete Fer- 
tilizers — Soil Acidity — Lime — Green Manures — Legumes — 
Ploughing Under — Catch Crops 9 

CHAPTER III 
Hot Beds 

Uses — Location — Means of Heating — Construction — Preparation 

of the Manure — Care 19 

CHAPTER IV 

Seeds and Seed Sowing. Transplanting 

Quality of the Seed — Germination — Seed Beds — Planting — 

Transplanting 24 

CHAPTER V 

Irrigation 

Moisture Requirements of Plants — Methods of Irrigation 32 

V 



VI CONTEXTS 

CHAPTER VI 

Vegetable Gardens 

PAGE 

The Home Garden — School Gardens 36 

CHAPTER VII 

Storing and Packing 

Storage Cellars and Pits — Storing Root Crops — Celery — Onions 

and Cabbage — Packing 43 

CHAPTER VIII 

Crops 

Propagation, preparation of soil for, planting, cultivation, harvest- 
ing and marketing of the following: 1. Asparagus. 2. Beans. — 
3. Beets. — 4. Cabbage. — 5. Bru.ssels sprouts. — 6. Cauliflower. — 
7. Celery. — S. Cucumbers. — 9. Dandelion. — 10. Egg Plant.— 
11. Hor.>e-radish.— 12. Lettuce.— 13. Muskmelon.— 14. On- 
ions. — 15. Parsnips. — 16. Salsify. — 17. Pea. — 18. Radi.sh.— 
19. Rhubarb. — 20. Spinach.— -21. Scjuash. — 22. Sweet corn. — 
23. Tomatoes 53 



xMAKKET GAKDEXIXG 



CHAPTER I 

LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEX. CULTR'ATIOX 

The location of tlie market garden is determined by a 
number of factors, the most important of which are market, 
soil, transportation facilities, labor supply, manure supply 
and water. 

1. Market. The market, and nearness to market, are 
of first importance in choosing the location for the market 
garden. The grower must have a sure and dependal^le 
market for iiis products; the larger cities generally' afford 
the steadiest and most dependable markets. j\Iost of the 
products of the market garden are of a perishable nature; 
if the garden is not located close to a market, within 
hauling distance, the express or fast freight service must 
be efficient and dependable. The condition of the roads 
is of vital importance to the grower who intends to haul 
his produce to market with a team or auto truck. 

2. Soil. The soil is of secondary importance to the 
market. A market must be had in which to dispose of 
the produce; but a good gardener can build up and improve 
the average soil so that it will protluce good crops of most 
vegetables, while it might be impossible to create or build 
up a market. 



2 MARKET GARDENING 

The ideal market garden soil is a good sandy loam, under 
laid by a gravelly subsoil. 8uch a soil warms up quickly 
in the spring, never Ixakes or puddles, can be worked soon 
after a rain, can be worked early in the spring, is well 
drained and is adapted to a wide range of crops. 

3. Exposure. The land should slope to the south or 
southeast. .Such an aspect assures the earliest warming 
up in the spring, is protected from cold north winds and 
receives the greatest amount of sunshine. 




Fig. 1. — Disc Harrow. 



Windbreaks are desirable and may be temporary or per- 
manent. Temporary wind breaks may be built by stick- 
ing brush into the ground or constructing a tight board 
fence along the exposed side. A more permanent wind- 
break is to be had by planting trees close together along 
the exposed side; this will, in time, form a compact hedge 
which is very efficient in breaking the wind. 



LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN 3 

4. Labor. The market gardener is dependent upon a 
quickly available and cheap supply of labor. The large 




Fig. 2. — The Meeker Smoothing Harrow. 



cities are the sources of such a supply of labor. Intensive 
gardening must be done very largely by hand and a large 




Fig. .3.— Double Wheel Hoe. 



number of hands must be available, for a few months' time 
during the year, for the successful carrying on of the inten- 
sive market garden. The larger cities also furnish a large 



MARKET GARDENING 




O 



fe 



LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN 5 

supply of horse manure which is most important in market 
gardening. 

5. Water. A market garden is not completely equipped 
unless it has an abundant supply of water for irrigating 
the crops and for the preparation of the vegetables for 
market. The gardener should not depend upon the rain- 
fall for the success of his garden. It is essential that water 
be available for irrigation whenever the conditions demand 
it. Practically every kind of vegetable is washed when 
being prepared for market and a good supply of pure water 
is necessary for this work. 

6. Preparation of the Soil. After the manure has been 
applied, the ground should be well ploughed. Four to six- 
inches is sufficient depth for ploughing in most cases; too 
deep ploughing is not advisable because new soil is brought 
to the surface which will take a number of seasons to come 
to a proper condition for the growing of vegetables. Fol- 
lowing the ploughing, the soil should be thoroughly disced. 
A double cut-a-way disc harrow is the best tool to break 
up lumps and with which to get the soil into its best con- 
dition for the planting of garden crops. The discing should 
be followed by an application of a high grade chemical fer- 
tilizer which should be mixed with the top soil by the use 
of a peg tooth smoothing harrow or by the use of a Meeker 
disc smoothing harrow. 

When the soil is of an usually poor quality or is somewhat 
heavy and lumpy, it is advisable to follow the first discing 
with the plough. It may be necessary to plough the ground 
three times to get it into proper condition for such a crop 
as lettuce. The first and last ploughings may ho shallower 
than the second ploughing when three ploughings are made. 

7. Cultivation. The vegetable garden nmst have fre- 
quent and thorough, but shallow, cultivation. Most vege- 



MAEKET GARDENING 




O 



LOCATION FOR THE MARKET GARDEN 7 

tables do not root deeply but send their roots out quite 
near the surface. The cultivation, if carried on too deep 
close to the plants, is liable to injure the roots. The object 
of freciuent cultivation is to keep down the weeds and to 
maintain a dust mulch for the conservation of the water 
held in the soil. Cultivation lets the air and sunlio;ht into 
the soil thereby favoring- the development of certain ben- 
eficial bacteria and helping to make available the plant 
food applied to the soil. 




Fig. 6. — Combined Hill and Drill Seeder and Wheel Hoe. 



For the use of the seed drill the soil must be in a smooth, 
mellow condition, free from lumps or coarse material that 
would interfere with the planting or with keeping the 
rows straight. The Meeker smoothing harrow, Fig. 2, is 
the best tool on the market for finishing the ground pre- 
vious to drilling in the seed. This harrow consists of four 
rows of small discs, placed close together, two rows of discs 
in front and two rows behind with a smoothing plank in 
the middle. This harrow will leave the surface in as fine 
condition as though the ground had been hand raked. 



8 MARKET GARDENING 

When the rows are close together and hand work must 
be employed, the choice of tools will largely determine the 
cost of the cultivation. The two-wheel and single-wheel 
hoes are commonly used in cultivating the smaller vege- 
tal)le crops. The two-wheel hoe is designed and intended 
to run straddle of the row with a wheel each side and close 
to the plants. The various teeth and cutters furnished with 
the doul)le or single-wheel hoes are adjustable so that the 
cultivation may be very close or farther from the plants. 
The single-wheel hoe is designed for use between the rows. 
There are a number of coml)ination seed drills and wheel hoes 
on tlie market which are very desirable for the small grower, 
the cost of the combined tool lieing but little more than the 
cost of the seed drill alone. The liest makes of the combina- 
tion tools allow for the elimination of the seed di'ill or wheel 
hoe attachments as may be desired. Others make it neces- 
sary to use both the seed drill and the wheel hoe attachments 
at the same time; the drill sini])ly being tlu'own out of gear 
and the teeth attached. 



CHAPTER II 
FERTILIZERS 

8. Kinds. There are three general .sources of fertiUzer, 
or plant food; stable manures^ chemical fertilisers and green 
manures. The term " green manure " is used to designate 
such crops as cow peas, crimson clover, rye and other green 
crops grown for ploughing under. Such crops add humus to 
the soil and, when a leguminous crop is ploughed under, 
a considerable amount of nitrogen is also added to the 
soil. Green crops are usually ploughed under in the spring 
although it is often desirable to plougli the croD under in the 
fall. 

9. Stable Manures. Stable manures are more gen- 
erally used than any other source of plant food for grow- 
ing vegetables. In many instances, they are the cheapest 
source of plant food obtainable, as when the grower is located 
near a large city and the stable manure may l)e had at small 
cost or for hauling it away. In other instances, manure 
brings a good price and is often shipped long distances for 
the market gardener. Rotted stable manure is the best 
fertilizer for the garden, for not only is a supply of quickly 
available plant food added, but stable manure also furnishes 
a store of humus in its most desiral)le condition for readily 
incorporating with the soil. Stable manure runs compara- 
tively low in its plant food value. It is estimated that a ton 
of partly rotted stable manure is worth about $2.00 for 
the plant food contained in it; it is of course worth more 
than this to the gardener Ijecause of its supply of Immus. 

9 



10 MARKET GARDENING 

Humus, or rotted vegetable matter, is indispensable for 
the successful growing of vegetables or any other crop. 
Humus makes the soil more friable, helps it to hold moisture, 
lightens a heavy soil and makes more retentive a light soil. 

A soil deficient in humus is hard to work, bakes quickly 
after a rain, is slow to warm up in the spring and is very 
unfavorable for the use of chemical fertilizer. H humus 
is not present in a soil, the chemical fertilizer applied 
will largely be lost. The addition of hunms renders the 
soil fit for the use of chemical fertilizers, and furnishes a 
condition favorable for certain chemical changes which 
constantly go on in the soil, and for certain friendly bacteria. 

Other manures used in vegetable growing are sheep 
manure, hen manure, cow manure and hog manure. Hen 
and sheep manures are rich in nitrogen and their store of 
plant food is quickly availaV)le; they are valuable for use 
as a top dressing or for crops requiring unusual amounts 
of nitrogen. They arc " hot " manures and must be used 
with care else the crops may be damaged by burning. Cow 
and hog manure are cold manures, their content of plant 
food is slow to become available except when they are well 
rotted. 

10. Composting. It is not generally desirable to apply 
fresh horse manure to land intended for growing vegetables. 
Fresh manure tends to the production of top at the expense 
of the root in many crops. The general practice in using 
stable manure is to compost it for a considerable time 
before applying it to the soil. Rotted or partly rotted 
stable manure has it? store of plant food in a quickly 
available condition, which is very desirable in growing 
vegetables. The plant food contained in fresh manure 
is not so quickly available except the nitrogen in the form 
of ammonia. 



FERTILIZERS 11 

Stable manure is composted by making the manure into 
a pile as soon as it is hauled to the market garden. Manure 
is generally hauled as fast as it is produced and is then built 
up into piles conveniently located for final distribution 
The pile should be about five feet high and as long and 
wide as necessary. As the pile is constructed, the manure 
should be firmed by tramping, and if very drj^, the manure 
should be wetted sufficiently to prevent burning in the pile. 
When fresh horse manure is placed in a pile, fermentation 
takes place with a considerable amount of heat. The heat 
will cause the manure to fire fang, or burn. The pile should 
be examined frequently, and if it is showing a whitish or 
grayish color, the pile should be turned and watered lightly. 
It should be remembered that every time the pile is turned 
there is a consequent loss of nitrogen in the form of ammonia; 
therefore handle the pile carefully and do not disturb it more 
often than is absolutely necessary. About six mo'iiths time 
is ordinarily required for the proper composting of the 
manure. 

Rotted stable manure is usually applied in the spring 
just previous to ploughing. After ploughing the ground 
should be thoroughly worked with a disc harrow. Fresh 
or partly rotted manure is best ploughed under in the fall; 
the procedure in the spring then is to thoroughly disc the 
ground before planting. 

The rate of application of manure depends upon the 
condition of the ground and the crops to be grown. In 
intensive gardening, where the ground is not allowed to 
be idle during the growing season, from twenty to fifty 
cords of rotted manure per acre should be ploughed under 
each season. The average application is twenty to twenty- 
five cords. 

11. Commercial Fertilizers. Commercial fertilizers are 



12 MARKET GARDENING 

necessary for the maximum production from the area 
planted. Stable manures alone may furnish sufficient plant 
food for some classes of vegetables, but being unbalanced 
in their content of plant food, their use cannot be depended 
upon entirely for the successful growing of all vegetables. 
Manures have a relatively high content of nitrogen, and are 
usually deficient in the mineral elements of phosphorous 
and potash. To balance the ration of plant food, chemical 
fertilizers are used. 

The plant food contained in niaiuu'es becomes available 
rather slowly, except for tlie nitrogen which is in the organic 
form, ammonia. This becomes available very quickly, 
particularly if the manure^ is rotted. 

Chemical fertilizers may be obtained in forms which 
are quickly available. This is important in intensive 
gardening where quick results are very desirable. Slow 
plant growth results in vegetaljles of inferior quality and 
oftentimes the yield is small in quantity. Slow growth 
tends to produce vegetables tough in texture and of poor 
flavor. Rapid growth produces tender, succulent vegetables 
of fine flavor. Then again, the more quickly a crop may 
be matured, the sooner it will become ready for harvesting 
and thus out of the way for succeeding crops. The use of 
chemical fertilizers enables the grower to raise a maximum 
crop of fine flavor and quality, and to produce the crop in 
the shortest time possible. 

Chemical fertilizers should seldom be used alone; they 
give the best results only when used as an adjunct to stable 
manures. To get the largest results from an application 
of chemical fertilizers, the ground must be liberally supplied 
with humus, and must be in a high state of cultivation. 

12. Nitrogen. The element necessary in the production 
of tender succulent stems and leaves is nitrogen, and it is 



FERTILIZERS 13 

therefore very valuable in the growing of such crops as 
celery, cabbage, lettuce, spinach, asparagus, or any crop 
grown for its top, or for early maturity. Nitrogen stimu- 
lates the plants and tends to produce a good growth in 
the early spring before the ground becomes thoroughly 
warmed. 

13. Nitrate of Soda. The most available and therefore 
valuable form in which nitrogen may be supplied is known 
as nitrate of soda. The nitrogen l:)ecomes availal)le as soon 
as the compound is dissolved, while if supplied in manures, 
dried blood, bone or tankage, these materials must decom- 
pose before their supply of nitrogen becomes availal)le. 

Nitrate of soda may be supplied alone or in combina- 
tion with other elements. The rate of application varies 
with the richness of the soil and with the kind of crops 
grown. The method of application varies with the condi- 
tions; whether it is used as part of a complete fertilizer, or 
is used alone as a top dressing. Under most conditions 
the best results are obtained from sowing the nitrate liroad- 
cast, even when the plants are young and tender. If the 
foliage is dry at the time of broadcasting the nitrate of 
soda, none of it will adhere to the leaves but all will glance 
off to the ground. 

Nitrate of soda may also be sown along the row quite 
close to the plants and then cultivated in, or it may be 
applied by any one of the numerous fertilizer distributors 
that are adapted for use in narrow I'ows. 

Nitrate of soda is used as a pai't of complete fertilizers 
for vegetables. Such fertilizers should be broadcasted over 
the land, or applied with a fertilizer drill just preceding the 
final harrowing before seed sowing, or placed in the hill, 
or drill, at the time of planting. The amount of nitrate of 
soda to be used at one time will vary with the richness of 



14 MARKET GARDENING 

the soil and with the character of the crop to be fertilized. 
The amount varies from a few pounds to as much as 250 
pounds per acre. It is the better practice to make smaller 
and frequent applications rather than to make larger and 
fewer applications. 

14. Other Sources of Nitrogen. Nitrogen may also be 
obtained from the use of dried blood, tankage, manures, 
raw or steamed bone and ground fish. Dried blood decom- 
poses quite rapidly and its supply of nitrogen becomes 
available quickly. Tankage decomposes somewhat more 
slowly than does dried blood. Manures, raw bone and 
steamed bone decompose slowly. Ci round fish becomes 
available slowly. 

The supply of nitrogen in a complete fertilizer should 
have at least two sources, nitrate of soda, and another source 
such as dried blood or tankage. 

16. Potash. Potash is particularly necessary in grow- 
ing root croops, as carrots, turnips, beets, radishes, and 
parsnips. It is also important in growing other vegetable 
crops. Sandy or muck soils are usually very deficient in 
their supply of this element. 

Potash is obtainable in several forms, muriate of potash 
being tiie most available form. Sulphate of potash is also 
a desii'alilc form. 

17. Phosphoric Acid. As most soils are deficient in 
pli()si)h()ri',' oi'id, the gardener nuist supply this element 
of plant food in some form. Phosphoric acid is very impor- 
tant in the growth of nearly all vegetable crops, the cereals 
l)eing jiai'ticularly benefited l)y it. A deficiency of phos- 
phoric acid is indicated by small yiekls and the slow maturity 
of the crops. 

Phosphoric acid is derived from several sources, the most 
important being Rock Phosphate, Thomas Slag, raw and 



FERTILIZERS 15 

steamed bone and tankage. The rock phosphates are the 
principal source of phosphoric acid for use in gardening. 

18. Complete Fertilizers. Fertilizers containing all three 
of the principal elements of plant food, nitrogen, phosphoric 
acid and potash, are called complete fertilizers. The per- 
centages of nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash, vary 
with the crops for which they are intended, nitrogen being 
higher, for example, in a fertilizer for asparagus or onions, 
while a fertilizer for the root crops would be lower in nitrogen 
and higher in potash. 

A fertilizer containing 4% nitrogen, 8% phosphoric 
acid, and 10% potash, is considered the basic fertilizer, 
but as has been indicated, the percentages vary with 
the need of the crops to be fertilized. 

The rate of application of complete fertilizers is governed 
by crop requirements and soil conditions. The amount 
varies from a few hundred pounds to a ton or more per acre 
for a single crop. The average application per season in 
intensive gardening is 1500 to 2000 pounds per acre, although 
the amount applied during the season may be as high as 
4000 pounds or more. 

19. Effects of Chemical Fertilizers on the Soil. Exces- 
sive applications of chemical fertilizers tend to cause soil 
acidity. In instances where the supply of humus is not 
kept up, the soil will become hard and unproductive, as well 
as acid. 

To remedy these conditions, the supply of humus must 
be maintained and liberal applications of lime made as 
required. The amount of lime to apply varies with soil 
conditions; a ton to the acre is usually sufficient for most 
soils, although as much as three tons per acre are sometimes 
required to neutralize an acid soil. 

20. Effects of Lime. Soil acidity is neutralized by 



16 MARKET GARDENING 

applications of lime, the physical and chemical condition 
of the soil are improved, causing plant food to be liberated 
and to become available. Lime, by neutralizing the soil 
acidity, renders the land unfavorable for the development 
of the clubfoot of cabbage and other crops belonging to the 
same family. IVIost garden crops do best in a soil slightly 
alkaline and applications of lime bring about this condition. 
The best results are obtained when the lime is applied in 
the spring. 

21. Methods of Application. Fertilizers and lime may 
be sown liroadcast over the land or applied with a fertilizer 
drill. The drill is far preferable to hand sowing, both for 
uniformity of application and for convenience. Lime should 
never be applied with manure, because it liberates the 
ammonia which will then be lost. The manure should be 
ploughed under and the ground then harrowed, after which 
apply the fertilizer or lime, just previous to the time of 
planting, and liarrow it in. 

22. Green Manures, (ireen manures and stable man- 
ures are the best sources of humus. \\'hile the growing of 
crops for green manuring, or for cover crops is not generally 
practiced b}^ the market gardeners, inunus must often be 
obtained by plougliing under green crops. 

Cover crops, and crops grown for green manures, are 
divided into two clas.ses, Icgioninous and non-lcguniinous. 
Crimson clover, red clover, cow peas, and vetch are examples 
of leguminous crops. Rye is a conmionly grown non- 
leguminous crop. 

23. The Legumes. The legumes have the ability to 
take nitrogen from the air and to store it up in nodules which 
grow on their roots. When a leguminous crop is ploughed 
under, not only is humus added to the soil, but some fertilizer 
in the form of nitrogen is also added. 



FERTILIZERS 17 

The clovers are usually sown in the spring or early 
summer following an early crop of vegetables. The pro- 
cedure varies as to when the crop is to be turned under. 
The crop may be allowed to grow during the season of sowing, 
and all of it ploughed under the following spring, or a cutting 
may be had and then the second growth ploughed under. 
This may be done either in the fall or spring, depending upon 
whether an early planting is desired. For early results, 
the crop should be ploughed under in the fall. 

Cow peas and Canadian field peas are desirable legu- 
minous crops used for green manuring. Neither of these 
crops is hardy and they must therefore be ploughed under 
in the fall. The Canadian field pea is one of the best of the 
crops grown to add humus to the soil. 

24. Non-Legumes. Rye is considered more of a catch 
crop than most of the cover crops grown. It may be sown 
quite late in the fall, and will make a good growth even in 
a rather poor soil. Very often poor soils are built up by 
first growing rye on them, which is turned under and followed 
by some leguminous crop. 

25. Ploughing Under. The older or more mature a 
green crop becomes l)eforc ploughing under, the longer it 
will take for the crop to decompose and for its plant food 
and humus to become available. The more mature the crop 
when ploughed under, the more danger there is that the 
capillarity of the soil may become more or less disturbed, 
because of the layer of undecayed vegetable matter under- 
lying the ploughed soil. The furrow should be turned on 
edge as much as possible to avoid this condition. Thorough 
discing is a great help in restoring the soil to its former 
capillarity, and also in cutting up the green crop ploughed 
under. 

26. Effects of Green Manuring. Green crops are valu- 



18 MARIvpyr GARDENING 

able and desirable sources of humus, but the rotting of green 
crops when ploughed under has a tendency to leave the soil 
somewhat acid. Before attempting to grow all kinds of 
vegetables in soil on which a green crop has been grown 
and ploughed under, an application of liuie must be made 
to neutralize the acidity. 

27. Catch Crops, (ireen crops arc often grown as catch 
crops. After the ground is cleared in the fall, or even before 
the crop is off the ground, a sowing may be made of crimson 
clover or rye. Crimson clover is often sowed between the 
rows of sweet corn when the last cultivation is given. Such 
catch crops may be grown as sources of humus, or as is often 
the case, tiiey are grown to hold the soil and to prevent 
washing. Catch crops being grown only through a limited 
season seldom grow to nmch size. 



CHAPTER III 

HOT Bl<:i)S 

28. Uses. Hot beds are used to start plants ahead of 
season, thereby enabling the grower to mature such crops 
as tomatoes, cabl)age, cauliflower, peppers, and many others 
earlier than their normal period of maturity. They are 
also used to grow such crops as radishes, lettuce, and green 
onions for marketing. 

Hot beds are often used for protection, either in the 
spring or fall. Plants may be planted in a hot bed in the 
spring and allowed to remain in them until the danger of 
frost is passed, when the beds are removed; or the hot beds 
may be used in the fall for maturing crops after the frosts 
begin. 

29. Location. The hot beds should be constructed on 
a well drained piece of ground with a south oi" southeast 
exposure. The l)eds should be protectinl against cold winds. 
This may be done by taking advantage of natural wind 
breaks, such as hedges, l)oard fences, or buildings. A tem- 
porary protection may l)e afforded by erecting frames and 
putting hot l)ed mats on them. 

30. Means of Heating. Hot beds are usually heated 
by fermenting manure, although steam or hot water are 
sometimes employed as sources of heat. The coils of pipe 
are hung on the frames, and pipes incased in tile are buried 
in the soil. The tile prevents too rapid drying out of the soil. 

Hot air is used for heating hot beds by constructing a 
furnace outside and at the end of the hot bed, and burying 

19 



20 



MARKET GARDExXlNG 




CQ 



a 



E>#t^^St 




HOT BEDS 21 

the flue in the hot bed. The flue should divide into two 
Hues and unite again at the farther end of the bed. Tile 
is commonly employed in building the flue, although brick 
may be used. 

31. Construction. Manure heated hot beds arc con- 
structed by digging a pit fifteen to thirty inches deep and 
six feet wide and placing over it a frame as long as may 
be desired. The front of the bed should be six inches lower 
than the back so that the glass may have the proper slope 
toward the sun. The common practice is to build the front 
six inches high and the back of the bed twelve inches high. 
Fig. 8, which is a cross-section view^ of a hot bed, shows 
the general features of construction. The frame should be 
strongly constructed of durable lumber, such as chestnut or 
cypress planking, and 2X4 inch posts. Cross bars should 
be placed from the front to the back of the bed at regular 
intervals to stiffen the frame. 

The frame of the hot bed is constructed to support the 
sash, which is commonly 3X6 feet, and glazed with 10X12 
inch glass. Smaller glass is sometimes used, l)ut three 
sections of 10X12 inch glass is preferred by most growers. 
Sash is often made and used in sizes larger than 3x6 feet, 
but larger sash is much heavier and more awkward to 
handle, also a bed over six feet wide cannot be worked 
advantageously. The sash should be made of cypress or 
cedar to assure durability. 

The depth of the pit is determined l)y such factors as 
the time of year, whether the weather is severe or mild, 
and the kind of crop to l)e grown. Such crops as radishes 
or lettuce do not recjuire so much heat as do tomatoes or 
peppers. 

32. Preparation of the Manure. Horse or mule manure 
may be used as a source of heat. The manure should be 



22 



MARKET GARDENING 



freshly gathered, or else should he manure that has not 
been heated. Place the manure in a pile about six feet 
wide and four feet deep and as long as may l)e necessary. 
The manure should be prepared under cover of a shed for 
best results. As the pile is constructed, the material should 
be shaken out and well firmed with the back of the fork 
or l)y lightly tramping. 

The pile should \)v examined often, and as soon as a 
good heat is generated, it should be turned, taking care 



^Jl Manure 




Fk;. 8. — Cross-seclioii of a Hot Bed. 



that the outside of the pile is ])laced in the centre of the 
new pile, h.xamine the pile cai'efully and in two or three 
days the fermentation will again have become well started 
heating the manure thoroughly. The manure is then ready 
to put into the pit. 

The manure is placed in the })it, a layer at a time, four 
to six inches deep, and tramped well, especially in the 
corners and along the sides. After the pit has l)een filled 
to the re(iuired depth, two to six inches of good loam is 
placed on the manure. When the hot beds are used for 
the growing of plants in flats or pots, two inches of soil is 



HOT BEDS 23 

sufficient to keep the air sweet, and to absorl) the moisture 
from the manure. When crops are to be grown in the soil 
of the hot bed, the soil should be at least six inches deep. 

After the manure has been placed in the pit and covered 
with loam, the hot bed thermometers should be thrust into 
the manure, and the sash, shutters and mats should be placed 
over the hot bed. As soon as the manure has again become 
hot and the soil is warmed through, the bed is ready for the 
introduction of plants in flats, or for the planting of crops 
in the soil. 

33. Care of the Hot Bed. Careful attention to the 
details of watering and ventilation are necessary for the suc- 
cess in growing plants in hot beds. The water should be ap- 
plied evenly and at a time when the temperature is rising. 
Watch the beds at the sides and corners that they do not 
dry out too rapidly. The hot beds are ventilated by raising 
the sash, either at intervals along the bed, or all of them, as 
the conditions may demand. Small blocks of wood are 
handy for placing undcn- the sash for ventilating. Avoid 
drafts as much as possil)le at all times, particularly with 
such crops as tomatoes, peppers or any other of the more 
tender crops. 

In the early spring, when the weather is yet quite 
severe at times, the hot beds must be banked with hot 
manure at the time that the pit is filled with manure for 
heating the bed. The manure should be banked to the full 
height of the frames antl tramped firmly. Anything that 
W'ill exclude the cold may be used for covering the frames 
at night and during severe weather. Mats of various kinds 
may be purchased, or straw mats may be made at home. 
Old blankets are sometimes used, also wooden shutters. 
The shutters are made the same size as the sash, 3x6 feet, 
and of light lumber. 



CHAPTr:R IV 
SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 

34. Quality of the Seed. Tlio importance of planting 
good scetl cannot be overestimated, because upon the selec- 
tion of the seed may depend the success or failure of the 
ci'op. Several factors detcM'mine the (|uality of the seed; the 
most important are vidhilihi and iriilh to tunne and type. To 
hav(^ a higii percentage of germination the seed must lie 
viabl(\i.e., must have the abiht y to germinate under average 
conditions and grow into seedlings. The seed must be true 
to name, that is, it should produce plants of the variety for 
which it is purchased. It must l)e true to type, or strain. 
Most varieties of vegetables and fruits have a numlier of 
types; it is undesirable tiiat a planting of any crop should 
be a mixture of several types. 

The average of gootl s(hm1 is reasonably free from weed 
seeds and dirt, l)ut the grower should be sure that his seed 
is clean before planting it. 

The growing of seeds at home is quite extensively prac- 
ticed and with good results if the grower has a definite, 
fixed idea as to the type of plant which he wishes to 
propagate. When selecting fruits for their seeds, the 
gi'ower should select the plant for its good qualities rather 
than select the biggest and finest fruits I'egardless of the 
plant upon whicli tliey have been grown. If the plant is 
not vigorous and does not possess desiral)Ie qualities, it is 
probable tliat the seed saved, even though the fruits be 

24 



SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 25 

desirable, will not produce fruits of the grade desired. The 
average grower will usually do bettei- to buy his seed from 
a reliable seedsman rather than to attempt to grow his own 
seed. 

The seeds of most vegetables are viable and will produce 
good plants and crops if they are more than one year old 
when planted. The best practice is to plant fresh seeds be- 
cause the quality of the seed is determined as much by the 
conditions under which they have been stored as upon 
the conditions under which they have been grown. Seeds 
should be stored in tight bags in a cool dry place. 

35. Germination. Each seed contains a minute plant 
ready to start into growth as soon as sufficient heat and 
moisture are supplied. Figs. 9(«), 9(6), 9(c) and 9{(l) show 
successive stages in the growth of a corn seedling. The 
minute plant in the kernel absorbs moisture and increases 
in size, first sending out a root and later the stem. Later, 
other roots appear and the stem turns upward toward the 
light while the tap root pushes its way downward into the 
soil. Until the roots are grown, the kernel furnishes food 
to the plant. 

Seeds may be germinated between layers of moist, warm 
flannel, or in small germination dishes, and will make suffici- 
ent growth under these conditions for the grower to test 
his seeds and determine the percentage of viable seeds. 
All seeds which will germinate, that is start into some 
growth, will not grow into a good plant. It is only the 
seeds producing a strong root and sprout that will grow into 
good plants. 

Every grower of vegetables should test his seeds before 
planting any of them in the ground. A simple and con- 
venient method is to take a piece of clean wliite flannel, dip 
it in warm water and wring the water out until it no longer 



Tap Root 




Tap Root 



Fifi. 9 (a). — The Germination of 
Corn. The tap root is ajjpearing 
and tlie embryo plant is much in- 
creased in size. 



iroiuul Line 




Tap Root 



Fig. (c). — The Germination ol 
Corn. Stem breaking tlu'ouy,li 
the Soil. 




Fi<;. 9 (Ji). — The Germination of 
Corn. Tap root longer and stem 
a))pearing. Note how the stem is 
growing upward toward the light 
and the root downward into the 
soil. 




Fig. 9 ((/). — The Corn Seedling. 
26 



SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 27 

drips from the flannel. Two warm, eioht inch plates will 
then be needed to contain the flannel. Lay the flannel in 
one plate and on one end of it count out a number of seeds. 
It is best to use the seeds in lots of from ten to one hundred; 
one hundred l^eing- the best number to use as a fairer test 
can ])e had from this number of seeds than from any smaller 
number. After the seeds have been counted and laid on one 
end of the flannel, fold the other end of the flannel over the 
seeds so that they are all covered. The second plate should 
then be placed over the first plate containing the flannel and 
seeds, with the bottom of the plate upwards, and the whole 
set aside in a place where the temperature can be kept at 
about 70°. The seeds should be examined every day that 
the flannel may be kept moist by additions of water, and 
all germinated seeds counted and thrown out. The number 
of seeds remaining after all the germinated seeds have been 
thrown out will determine the percentage of germination 
for the lot tested. Thus, if we have one hundred seeds 
and twenty remain after the test, we know that eighty per 
cent of the seeds are viable and can reasonably be depended 
upon to produce plants. 

36. The Seed Bed. The seed bed must be carefully 
and thoroughly prepared; lumps and coarse material must 
be raked out, leaving the surface in a fine, smooth condition. 
The seed bed should have a depth of at least four to six 
inches of good loam and should l)e thoroughly pulverized 
clear to the l)ottom. The lighter soils furnish the best con- 
ditions for making the seed bed and are more easil}' gotten 
into proper condition than are the heavier soils. 

After having thoroughly prepared tlie seed bed, the con- 
ditions necessary for the germination of the planted seeds 
are principally heat and moisture. All soil contains some au', 
at least a sufficient amount will ordinarily surround a seed 



28 MARKET GARDENING 

for its use while germinatino; and growing into a seedling. 
The conditions which have to be supplied tlien are the heat 
and the moisture. If the setuls are to l)e planted in a hot 
bed, the ground must l)e warmetl by the use of glass and the 
numure under the l)ed; if the seeds are to be planted in the 
open ground we must depend upon the weather conditions 
for the right temperature of the soil. The seeds of the cooler 
loving plants such as cabbage, or turnip, may be planted in 
cooler soils than such seed as tomato, egg plant or cucumber. 
Such seeds as lettuce, spinach, cabbage, beet and 
railishes may l)e sown earlier and under cooler conditions 
than may seeds of tomato, corn, egg plant, melons and other 
warmth loving plants. 

The time for :^ve(\ sowing depends ujion such factors as 
condition of the soil, habilil\- I'oi- frost and tlie season. For 
such plants as tomatoes, peppers, egg plant, lettuce, cabbage 
and other transplanted ci'ops, the time for sowing the seed 
under glass is determined largely by the season in which it 
is desired to harvest the ci'ops. 

37. Planting. In the lioinc garden the seeds are usually 
planted by hand l)y dropping I hem in the liill or furrow 
previously prepai'ed. 'i'hal the rows may be straight and 
a uniform distance ai)art, the ground should be measured 
and staked and a line uscmI in marking out the rows. The 
line should be stretched tightly and the corner of a hoe or 
the back of a rake used to follow the linc^ and make the pro- 
posed furrow. The seeds shouUl be dropped at uniform 
intervals; seed held between the thumb and finger may be 
dropped evenly with a little practice. For the larger garden, 
a seed drill is indispensal)le for economical planting. The 
depth of planting is then easily regulated. 

After ])lanting, tlie soil should be finned l)y pressing it 
down with the back of a hoe oi' rake. This is done to restore 



SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 29 

the capillarity of the soil which has been destroyed by open- 
ing the furrow or hill. The seed drill does this by the 
pressure of the trail wheel which follows over the planted 
row after the seed is covered by the planter wings. 

For the best and quickest results the seed should be 
planted only in freshly prepared ground. In such ground 
the conditions of heat and moisture are at their best and 
the seed is placed in surrountlings most favorable for ciuick 
germination and the growth of the seedling. 

38. Transplanting. To obtain early fruits of such plants 
as tomatoes, cabbage, cauliflower, egg plant and peppers, 
it is necessary to plant the seeds early, in a protected loca- 
tion, or in a green-house or hot bed, from which the seed- 
lings are transplanted one or more times. 

Some of the benefits of transplanting are early maturity, 
the economical use of the ground by growing seedlings for 
transplanting to the field as soon or even before a crop is 
taken off, the increase in productiveness that results from 
transplanting. A plant that has been transplanted develops 
a better root system than one that is not transplanted. 

Plants to be transplanted should be allowed to dry out 
for at least a day previous to transplanting and watered just 
before transplanting. This procedure tends to fill the plants 
with water just before disturbing them, it also aids in retain- 
ing a ball of earth around the roots. The plants should be 
lifted carefully that the system of roots be disturbed and 
broken as little as possible. The plants will start easier 
and more quickly if a little water is poured around them 
when transplanted, or if they can be irrigated after jjeing set. 

Before transplanting begins, the field should be carefully 
marked that the rows may be straight and properly spaced. 

The time to transplant is determined by conditions of the 
plants to be transplanted, the weather conditions, conditions 



3U 



MARKET GARDENING 



of the soil, whether dry enough, moist enough, warm 
enough, or properly prepared. If possible, it is best to 
choose a cool or cloudy day for transplanting, or to trans- 





Fii;. 10. — Dibliers far Transplanting. 

plant just before a rain. When these conditions are not 
to be had, do the transplanting late in the day, rather 
than in the morning. 




■5^~'.^§^~^^*S*.»-Sr?^cc: 



Fig. 11.— Proper Method of Using a Dibber in Transplanting. Note 
how the soil is pressed firmly around the roots of the seedling, 

Wlu'n transplanting, set the plants just a little deeper 
than thry were set previously. 

Plants are generally transplanted by hand, a dibber or 



SEEDS AND SEED SOWING. TRANSPLANTING 31 

trowel, Fig. 10, being used to make the hole. After the 
seedling is placed, the soil should be pressed firmly around 
the roots with the fingers, or with the dibber or trowel 
handle as in Fig. 11. 

When the gardening operations are small, the trans- 
planted plants can easily be shaded for a few days after 
being set in the field. Shingles, paper bags, small boxes, or 
anything that will cast a shadow may be used for shading. 



CHAPXr^K V 
IRRKiATION 

39. Moisture Requirements of Plants. Water plays a 
most iiiijiortant part in all stages of plant growth. Mois- 
ture is necessary for seed germination and is no less necessary' 
to the seedling and plant. The soil may be properly pre- 
pared and there may be an al)undance of properly balanced 
fertilizer, but unless sufficient moisture is present in the soil 
the plant can make but little growth or get but little benefit 
from the fertilizer supplied for it. 

Water is a solvent of plant foods. It also acts as a 
carrier of plant food in solution, and holds plant foods in 
solution in the soil. Moisture is necessary for the action 
of fri(>ndly l)acteria, and l)v carrying solvent acids to the 
plant food pres(Mit in the soil, it makes the plant food avail- 
able to the plant. 

Vegetal )les arc composed very largely of water; in some 
cases they are over 90% water. Thv i)lant juice, or sap, 
is composed veiy largely of water, it thereby becoming the 
principal agent in the carrying of plant food from the soil 
to the various parts of the plant. Enormous quantities of 
wat<M- are transpired during the life of the plant, several 
hundretl pounds of water being necessary for the making 
of a pound of dry matter. 

Irrigation may be looked upon as insurance against 
drought. With a plentiful supply of water the gardener is 
independent of the uncertainties of rainfall. Sufficient 

32 



IRRIGATION 



33 




34 



M A R K ET ( 4 A H D K XING 




IRRIGATION 35 

moisture insures larger yields, good quality and proper 
maturity of the crop. It may mean the difference between 
a full crop and practically no crop for the season. 

40. Methods of Irrigation. There are several methods 
of applying water; the kind of gardening usually determines 
the manner of supplying water artificially. Thus, water may 
be applied with a hose, in the furrow, or with an overhead 
sprinkler system. When the garden is extensive, the hose 
method is neither very practicable nor satisfactory. If the 
gardening be intensive and the rows are close together, the 
furrow method is not practicable owing to the small amount 
of room in which to handle the water between the growing 
plants. The overhead sprinkler system is by far the best and 
most natural method of supplying water. The water is 
applied gently, and crops growing in rows close together 
can be irrigated successfully in an extensive manner with 
this method. The Skinner system, Fig. 13, is the best over- 
head system to be had. It consists of overhead pipes that 
are perforated and have small nozzles in the perforations. 
The pipes may be turned completely around, thus dis- 
trilniting the water evenly in all directions from the pipe line. 

The amount of water to be applied at one time depends 
upon the conditions of the soil, the weather, and the crop. 
About an inch of water is the limit that should be applied 
at one time. 



CHAPTER VI 
VEGETABLE GARDENS 

41. The Home Garden. Tlie home vegetable garden 
should be given far greater eare and consideration than is 
generally aecordetl it. As a factor tending to lower the 
increasing cost of living, the home garden can be of use 
practically the year round. No area on the farm is as profit- 
able as the home garden. Not only will it furnish vegetables 
for the home table but it often will furnish a sufficient supply 
for sale to the local market or to the neighbors. 

The work done in the home vegetable garden is usually 
done at odd times and for this i-eason the garden should 
be located as close to the house as the conditions may permit. 
It should also be near the house so that the supply of fresh 
vegetables may easily l)e had at short notice. The garden 
should be carefully planned that the ai'ea j^lanted may give 
the greatest returns for the money expended and the work 
done. The perennials such as rhubarb, asparagus, horse 
radish, strawberries and such bush fruits as blackberries 
and raspberries should he planted at one end of the garden 
in order that they may not interfere with the cultivation 
and harvesting of the general garden crops. Fig. 14 shows 
a good arrangement. 

The home vegetable^ garden is not complete without a 
small hot bed in which to grow such crops as radishes and 
lettuce, out of season, and for starting such plants as lettuce, 
cabbage and tonnxto plants for transplanting. 

36 



VEGETABLE GARDENS 



37 



Asparagus 



Blackberries 



Raspberries 



Strawberries 



Tomatoes 



Sweet Corn 



Peas 



Beans 



Beets 



Parsnip 



Radishes 



Onions 



Lettuce 



Cucumbers 



Melons 



Fig. 1-4. — Plan of Home Vegetable Garden. 



38 MARKET CiAHDENING 

The honw garden should ])e th()i()U<ihly prepared and 
well fertilized for tlie best results. A heavy dressing; of 
manure is always essential and will often be the only fer- 
tilizer neeessary, but a. dressing of eheniieal fertilizer will 
give returns far greater than the investment necessary for 
its use. P^equent and thorough cultivation should be given 
and, as conditions may refjuire it, some form of irrigation 
should l)e practiced. Frecpient cultivation largely elimi- 
nates the necessity of irrigation as the cultivation maintains 
a dust nndcli which acts as a conserver of the moisture 
already in the soil. 

Such croj)s as carrots, beets, turnips and parsnips are 
easily stored either in the gi'ound or in a cool cellar. When 
the house cellar contains ;i furnace, one end of the cellar 
may often be partitioned otY so that tlu^ air in it is constantly 
cool and fresh. Hoot crops stored in cellars should be buried 
in moist sand and kept as cool ;is possible without freezing. 
When there is no cell.'ir a\ailable for storing the root crops, 
pits may be used (o ;ul\;uit,ig('. The location of the pit 
should l>e on well-drained soil. A sandy soil is best for this 
pvn'pose as it alTords good di'ainage. The pit should be 
about three feet deep and the roots should be covered to a 
depth of from six to eighteen inches, dej^Miding upon the 
locality and tlie season, ^'entilation should ])e provided 
by placing shoi't lengths of tile in the ))it, slanted away 
from the ])revailing winds. The tile siiould extend at least 
two inches above the surface of the pit. The soil thrown 
over the pit should have sufhcient crown to cause it to shed 
water easily. C'ahbage may be storetl in a pit or in a cool 
cellar when placed on sludves or in snuill well-ventilated 
bins. 

42. School Gardens. As the excellent custom of plant- 
ing and caring for vegetable and flower gardens as a part of 



VEGETABLE GARDENS 39 

school recreation and training is increasing, it is hoped that 
this little manual ma}' l)e found of value as a concise and 
practical guide in such work. For this reason, brief sugges- 
tions for the planning of the school garden are here given. 

When the area available for the school garden is of 
sufficient size, the ground shoidd l)e prepared by the use of 
teams. A good dressing of rotted manure should l)e ploughed 
under and this followed by thorough discing. A dressing 
of a high grade, complete chemical fertilizer is desiral)le. 
After discing the ground, the surface should be gotten into 
condition with the smoothing harrow. If the use of teams 
is not possible, the ground may be spaded and raked by hand. 

Plots. The individual jilots shoukl be laid off by the 
use of stakes and a cord to surround each plot and the rows 
should be laid off to run across the wiiole row of plots, that 
the row spacing may l)e uniform. The plots should be 
numbered. The size of tlie plots is often determined by 
the area available for the class. The size of the plots may 
be determined Ijy the age or previous experience of the 
students. The plots vary from six b}' six feet for the smaller 
children up to as large as one hundred feet long and six to 
eight feet wide for the older, or more experienced students. 
Six feet wide is the most desirable width for the school 
garden; plots wider than this are hard to work without 
walking on them. The center of a six foot plot can easily 
be reached from each side. A path eighteen to twenty- 
four inches wide should be left between the plots. This 
gives sufficient space in which to work and pi'ovides space 
into which trash and weeds niaj^ be dumped, later to be 
hauled away. 

It is desiral)le that the plots be laid out so that the rows 
may run north and south rather than east and west. A 
north and south row assures for each row an eciual amount 



40 



MARKET GARDENING 




O 



VEGETABLE GARDENS 41 

of sunlight. This is quite important in growing tall crops 
together with low growing crops. 

The planting distance will largely be determined l)y the 
crops grown. Such crops as carrots, beets, radishes, onions 
and lettuce may be grown in rows sixteen inches apart. 
When carrots, beets, lettuce or other small growing crop 
are grown, the radishes or onion sets may be used as fillers, 
being set in the center of the sixteen inch rows. This leaves 
the rows but eight inches apart. Such crops as beans, peas, 
peppers, egg plants and similar size crops should be planted 
in rows from eighteen to twenty-four inches apart. Radishes 
lettuce and onion sets are fine fillers, or companion crops 
to be used with such crops. 

The vegetables grown should be of the common kinds 
with which most students are more or less familiar. If 
desired, flowers may also be grown, one end of each plot 
being devoted to them. 

Plan. The following plan is suggested for a plot six feet 
wide and thirty feet long: 

Beginning at one end of the plot lay off twelve rows 
sixteen inches apart, and seven rows twenty-four inches 
apart. In the sixteen inch rows, plant four rows each of 
lettuce, beets and carrots and interplant six rows with 
radishes and six rows with onions or onion sets. In the 
twenty-four inch rows plant one row each of peas, beans, 
cabbage, cauliflower, peppers, egg plant and tomatoes. It 
is expected that these larger growing crops will be grown from 
transplanted plants rather than from seed. Between the 
twenty-four inch rows there may be planted transplanted 
beet or lettuce plants. The space should again be dividetl 
by planting radish seed in the center of the twelve inch rows. 
Such a plan as outlined will give the student a good working 
knowledge in the handling of seeds, and plants for trans- 



42 MARKET GARDENLNG 

planting, and will afford an example of intensive gardening 
and in the use of companion crops. 

Tools. The tool equipment should consist of a sufficient 
number of small garden hoes, hand woeders, trowels and 
dibbles so that each student may have pi'oper tools for each 
operation. The garden iioes should be light, yet strong, and 
not too wide as they must he used in rows as close as six 
inches. A number of rakes must be available for use in 
preparing the plots for planting. It is highly tlesirable that 
a number of wheel hoes and seed drills be availal)le for 
planting the gardens, at least in part, and for cultivating. 
There are a number of desirable combination seed drills and 
wheel hoes on the market, the most tlesirable of which are 
those in which the seed drill or the wheel-hoe attachment 
may be used entirely independent of each other. It is 
not expected that all of the planting will l)e done by the use 
of the seed drills but the student should have sufficient use 
of these tools to become familiar with them. 



CHAPTEPv VII 
STORING AND PACKING 

43. Storage Cellars and Pits. That the greatest returns 
from the vegetal )le garden may Ije liad, a considerable por- 
tion of many of the crops must l)e stored and held for sale 
during the winter months. Such crops as l)eets, carrots, 
turnips, celery, cal)l)age and potatoes are easily held if 
properly stored. 

The root celhir is the most common storage. This may 
be a cellar under a liarn or house, or it may be a pit sub- 
stantially walled and roofed to ecjuip it for permanent use. 
The cellar or pit should be frost proof and so located that 
perfect drainage is had. Provision must also be made for 
ventilation. During the early fall and in the spring, the 
temperature of the storage is tlependent upon the ventilation, 
the tloors and ventilators being opened at night antl closed 
early in the morning that the cool air of tiie night may be 
held during the day. 

44. Storing Root Crops. The loot crops to be stored 
must be handled carefully to avoid unnecessary bruising. 
The tops should not be cut too close to the root; about one 
inch from the root is the right length to cut the tops. Do 
not expose the roots to the air longer than is necessary 
before moving them to the storage. Clean, moist sand 
must be provided for covering and burying the roots. The 
roots should he cool when placed in the storage. Root 
crops can be held in good condition in open l)ins if the air 

43 



44 



MARKET GARDENING 


















•„l <u 



* 1, 







,i^ii3e^, 




STORING AND PACKING 45 

surrounding them can be kept cool and moist; however, 
there is certain to be considerable loss when root crops are 
held uncovered because the top and outer layers will dry out 
and sprout. As the roots are brought in from the field, they 
should be covered to a depth of about six inches with the 
moist sand. Keep the air in the cellar as cool as possible 
without freezing. 

45. Celery. Celery is usually stored in temporary pits 
and houses as in Figs. 17 and 18. A satisfactory celery pit 
may be made by digging a trench about six feet long, thirty 
inches deep and as long as may be necessary for the accomo- 
dation of the crop. The celery is lifted with most of the 
roots intact and placed in the pit as closely as possible, the 
pit is then covered with boards, provision being made foi 
ventilation. As the weather becomes more severe, the cover- 
ing is made frost proof with mats, blankets or strawy manure 
and soil. When celery is stored in large amounts, a good 
storage can be made by constructing a temporary, even span, 
house out of boards used in blanching the early celery. The 
roof may be covered with any available trash from the fields 
such as tomato tops, or strawy manure, and earth thrown 
over all. A covering of earth should be added to as the 
season advances and the cold becomes more severe. A 
narrow walk is left through the center of the storage for the 
convenience of the workmen in getting out the celery; this 
is generally provided by staking up planks to hold the celery 
in place. 

Cellars provide excellent storage for celery, the celery 
being held in place with planking. The celery roots may be 
partly buried, or set on top of the ground as is done when the 
plants are placed in a pit. The plants should be placed 
close together. 

46. Onions and Cabbage. Onions are usually stored in 



46 



MARKET GARDENING 




03 
(I 
O 



STORING AND PACKING 



47 




48 



MARKET GARDENING 



well insulated houses constructed for tlie purpose. The 
best practice is to use crates holding ai:)out one bushel each, 




Fig. 19.— Bushol Box. 




\F 


f 




Vie,. 20. — ^Six-basket Crate; tSix-qiiart Baskets. 



although shallow, well ventilated bins are sometimes used. 
Ample ventilation must be provided and the temperature 
must be kept as near 33° as possible. Onions will not stand 



STORING AND PACKING 



49 



freezing and thawing, but if kept frozen they will be of good 
quality when thawed, if used at onee. 

Cabbage should be stored in cool, well ventilated cellars. 
Narrow bins may be used for holding the cabbage. The 
temperature should be kept low and a constant supply of 
fresh air should l)e provided. Cabbage may be stored in 
pits, all of the outer leaves l^eing left on the heads. The 




Fig. 21. — Six-basket Crate; Four-quart Baskets. 

heads should tirst be covei'ed with straw and then earth 
should be placed over them. The depth of the covering 
must be increased as the weather becomes more severe. 

When removing vegetables from pits, or other temporary 
storage, care must be exercised that the remainder of the 
vegetables are not chilled or frozen. 

47. Packing. The package most generally used for 
local marketing is the bushel box, Fig. 19. It is a durable 



59 



-M A II K F/r (J A 1 { i:t E N I X G 



package and h^ids itself to tlie safe cari'vinii and deliv(MT to 
niai'k(^t of a gix>at variety of crops. The bushel l)ox is easy 
to handle and to load on a wagon, or truck, or to handle in 
shipping by exjM'css or freight. 

Crates ai'e used for such vegetables as asparagus and 
celeiy when packed for long shipment. The size of the crate 
varies with tlie demands of the market and the locality 




Fk;. 22. — Baircl ll,(iii|)('r. 



served. C*abbages and caulitlower also ;ii'e often shipped in 
crates, although barrels are ([uite genei'allx' employed in 
shipping these two crops. 

Bushel baskets of various designs are used for shipping 
such ci'ops as peas, string beans and spinach. The basket 
is usually of the "pcnich basket " type and has a light 
wooden cover, easily attached. 

There are a nvanljer of si^ccial packages on the market 



STORING AND PACKING 



51 




52 MARKET GARDENING 

which arc often of nuich value for use in a local market. 
Tomatoes are often packed in small baskets which are 
crated for shipment, as in Fig. 20. The crate usually holds 
six Ixaskcts although some crates are large enough to hold 
twelve baskets in two tiers of six baskets each. The cost 
of such a crate, with the baskets, runs from twenty-five 
cents to thirty cents each. The cost is too high for general 
use, and such a package can be used profitably only when 
crops are grown and shipped out of season and the returns 
are proportionately higher than normal. 

Tomatoes sold in small baskets, holding about ten pounds 
each, of which there are six baskets to the crate, as in Fig. 21, 
should be wrapped in thin paper wrappers for the best result. 
The wrapper may be used to advertise the grower and to 
estaljlish a brand. Tomatoes which are wrapped will carry 
better and open up in better condition than will tomatoes 
which are not wrapped. ( )nly hot house grown fruit will 
usually justify the use of expensive packages and the wrap- 
ping of each fruit. 



CHAPTER VIII 
CROPS 

I. ASPARAGU!l 

Propagation. Asparagus beds, or plantations, are usually 
established by planting one year old plants. Two year 
old plants which cost more are often planted, but the one 
year crowns give the best results and should be used in 
starting an asparagus plantation. 

The seed should l)e the best obtainable and is best sown 
with a seed drill in rows not less than sixteen inches apart 
for hand cultivation, nor less than thirty inches apart for 
horse cultivation. The ground sehM-ted for a seed bed should 
be a rich mellow loam, free from stones or rubbish. The 
seed should not be covered deeper than one and one-half 
inches. Do not sow the seed too thickly. The plants for 
best development should stand not less than two inches 
apart in the row, three or four inches apart would lie better. 

The plants should lie lifted in the fall and stored in a root 
cellar covered with moist sand. 

Planting. The field selected for an asparagus bed 
should l)e a rich deep loam, thoroughly cultivated, as free 
as possible from stones or rubbish of any kind. Previous to 
planting, the field should be heavily fertilized with well 
rotted manure. This should be supplemented by a liberal 
application of high grade, complete fertilizer. Nitrate of 
soda should be applied at intervals during the growing sea- 
son. Spring planting is generally practiced. 

53 



54 MARKET GARDENING 

The crowns should ho sot in furrows, six to twelve inches 
deep, depending upon tho depth of the toj) soil. It is not 
advisahle ever to make furrows so deep that the roots will 
be in or very near the sub-soil. Eight to ten inches is the 
average depth of planting. The reason for deep planting 
is that, ns the crowns naiew themselves each year, they come 
nearer the surface. D(^ep planting also places the crown 
deep enough so that tho plantation can be cultivated by a 
disc harrow without injury to tho crowns. Deep planting 
thus insures a longer life for tho plantation than shallow 
planting. 

After th(^ furrows aro made, make sui'o that there is a 
layer of good soil in tho bottom of tho furrow on which to 
place tho crowns. Spr(\-i(l tho (ioshy roots out so that their 
position will bo as noarly as possible that in which they 
grew in tho seed bod. ('o\'or tho crowns to a depth of two 
or tlnxM' inches, finning tho soil well over the roots. The 
crowns should not bo covered any deeper until the shoots 
come through tlu> ground, when tho furrows may be gradually 
filled in by cultivation. Tho furrows can usually be leveled 
by tho culti\ation praoticod the first season, in any event 
the ground should be Icvolod by fall. 

Distance to Plant. In good rich soil tho rows may 
be four foot apart and the plants set two to three feet apart 
in the row. Planting distances vary in different locahties 
and states, but the average distance is two and one-half to 
four fo(>t. 

Cultivation. As early as the ground can be worked, 
thoroughly cultivate tho field with a disc harrow. The soil 
should 1)0 kept well cultivated through the growing season 
as long as horse-drawn tools can be used without much 
injvn-y to tho tops. Hand hoeing may be necessary at times 
but it is not generally practiced on large plantations. 



CHOPS 55 

Ridging. There are two kinds of asparagus mar- 
keted, green and hlanched grass. Blanched grass is produced 
by cutting the shoots as soon as the tips show above ground; 
green grass is produced by cutting the shoots as soon as 
they have grown to the required length above ground. The 
shoots nia}^ be cut at the surface of the ground or just below 
the surface. Whether blanched grass or green grass, is 
desired, the practice is to ridge the ground over the rows. 
The ridges should be higher for producing blanched grass 
than for producing green grass. Tiie purpose of the ridge 
is primarily to gain a greater length of stalk of l)lanched 
grass. 

Harvesting. A light cutting of asparagus may be had 
the second year, if plenty of fertilizer is applied to the 
plantation. The third year the cutting mav continue from 
three to four weeks. As the plantation becomes older, the 
cutting season is extended until it may continue from eight 
to ten weeks. 

The shoots are gathered by cutting them off with a 
sharp knife. When l)lanched grass is desired, the knife is 
passed down the stalk until the required length is attained, 
when the shoot is cut off. The stalks should be cut long 
enough to make bunches six to ten inches long. The num- 
ber of stalks to the l)unch varies, but the bunches should 
be four and one-half inches in diameter, and weigh two and 
one-lialf to three pounds. 

Yield. The yield per acre varies; 1500 to 2000 launches 
per acre being considered excellent yields. The returns 
often run as high as $500.00 per acre, but the average is 
$200.00 to $250.00 per acre, for plantations in their prime. 

Fertilizers. During the cutting season, nitrate of soda 
should be sown along the rows, or l^roadcasted, in three 
or four applications. After the cutting season is over, 



56 MARKET GARDENING 

apply 1000 to 2000 pounds per acre of a high grade fertilizer. 
In the fall broadcast rotted manure at the rate of at least 
20 cords per acre and let it lay on the ground over the winter. 
The manure should be disced in in the spring, 

II. BEANS 

Soils. Beans do well on almost any kind of soil if 
it contains a reasonable ciuantity of hunuis. Light, well- 
drained soils, however, are espcn-ially desirable. Bush beans 
do ix'st in sandy soils. Lima b(>ans are the most difficult 
to grow as they require a long season to reach maturity and 
are very susceptible to advei'si* conditions, such as wet 
ground at the tiinc of ])lantiiig oi- continued cold weather. 

Planting. Beans should not be planted until danger 
of frost is passed and the ground is well warmed, although 
the bush varieties are more resistant to cold than are the 
pole beans. Heans may be planted in hills or drills as 
desired. 'The distance between rows of bush beans, where 
horse culti\-ation is ])racticed, is thirty inches io thirty-six 
inches. When liand cultivation is praeliee(l, it is jjest not 
to plant in rows closer than eighteen oi' twent>' inches. The 
seed should be of ttie best (piality. Vole beans should be 
planted in hills three or four feet apart. 

Bush beans are usually ])lant('d in a drill, the depth of 
planting varying with the kind of soil and the season of 
planting, from one inch in lieavy soils to tlu'ce inches in 
lighter soils. 

Use of Supports. Wire trellises may be used, or 
poles seven feet or more in height, for the support of the 
pole beans. The bark should \}v left on the poles that the 
beans may have a rough surface on which to cling. 

Cultivation. Freciuent and thorough cultivation siiould 



CROPS 57 

be practiced. Il should he borne in mind, however, that 
the bean is a shallow-rooted plant, and that the cultivation 
must be carefully done to avoid breaking the roots. 

Harvesting. Snap or shell beans must be gathered 
by hand. Half-bushel baskets are convenient for this pur- 
pose. Field beans may be pulled by hand or harvested by 
machines that cut the plants off close to the ground and 
leave them in windrows. After cutting, the beans are 
allowed to cure until in the proper condition to run through 
a threshing machine. 

Snap or shell beans are marketed in baskets or boxes 
holding a bushel each. Dry or field beans are generally 
marketed in sacks. Previous to sacking, the l^eans are run 
through machines that remove the dirt ami rubbish. 

Varieties. There are many varieties of beans and the 
grower, in selecting liis varieties, will do best to choose 
such varieties as have been proven adapted to the conditions 
under which he intends to grow them. 

Fertilizers. Nitrogenous fertilizers are not required to 
any extent for beans. A complete fertilizer containing 
2% or 3% of nitrogen, 8% potash and 10% of phosphoric 
acid, is well adapted to fertilizing beans. This should be 
used at the rate of 500 to b500 poumls per acre. 

To maintain the supply of humus, cover crops may be 
grown and ploughed under, or stal)le manure ploughed in 
at the rate of 10 to 15 cords per acre. 

III. BEETS 

Soil. Beets do best in light soils; sandy loams being 
particularly desirable. Such soils produce a crop early, 
with roots smooth and free from fibrous roots. Heavy 
soils tend to irregular shaped roots and to the production 



58 



MAKKET gakdp:>;ing 




CliOPS 59 

of many fibrous roots. If beets are being grown for a local 
market, not too discriminating, they may be a profitable 
crop when grown in any good soil. 

Planting. Beets are a cold-loving vegetable and may, 
therefore, be planted in the spring as soon as the ground can 
be gotten into good condition. The seed should be the best 
quality obtainable and should l)e sown in drills, not too 
thickly. The rows should be fourteen to sixteen inches 
apart. The distance between plants in the row will depend 
upon the size of root desired. It is a good plan to sow the 
seed rather thickly, thin them when six to eight inches high, 
and sell the thinnings for greens. The next pulling would 
be for early bunch beets and the final harvest would be of 
the roots near maturity or when fully grown. 

Transplanting. Teets transplant easily and to good 
advantage in sandy loams. The plants should be grown 
from four to six weeks in a hot bed or greenhouse before 
transplanting. Handle the seedling carefully, the more 
careful the handling, the fewer fibrous roots will be found. 
The plants should be well hardened before moving them to 
the field. If well hanlened, they will stand freezing without 
damage. 

Marketing. Early beets are always sold in bunches, 
the number in a bunch varies from four to ten, depending 
upon the season and the size of the roots. More mature 
beets are sold by the bushel box. The tops are cut oft' at 
least an inch from the root. 

Fertilizers. Early beets should grow very quickly. 
The beets for storage need not be grown so rapidly, but 
should maintain a steady growth. Nitrogenous fertilizers 
are necessary for earliness, but a more balanced fertilizer 
is best for the later crop. The ground should have a heavy 
dressing of stable manure at the rate of at least 20 cords to 



60 



MARKET GARDENING 




p2 






: •^■: y^l i^.J: 1 1* Si'"'*" 






si K\ "W V 








CROPS 61 

the acre. This should be supplemented by the application 
of a high grade complete fertilizer containing 4% nitrogen, 
8% phosphorus, and 10% potash, and used at the rate of a 
ton to the acre. 

Storage. Beets may be stored in pits, out of doors, 
or in cellars, buried in moist sand. The roots are pulled 
and the tops cut about an inch long. The roots should 
be kept in storage at about 33° F. 

IV. CABBAGE 

Planting. Cabbage is a transplanted crop, the seed 
being planted in greenhouses or hot beds for the first crop 
and in a protected location out of doors, or in a hot bed, for 
the later crop. The plants are ready for transplanting when 
six to eight weeks old. For early planting, the seed should 
be sown about March first and transplanted to two b>' two 
inches when the first true leaves appear. The plants may 
be set in the field as soon as the ground can ho gotten in 
condition in the spring. If properly hardened before plant- 
ing out, they will stand frost without any damage. The 
seed for the late crop is generally planted about June first. 
The seed should be planted in a protected lor'ation but the 
plants need not necessarily be transplanted until ready for 
the field. The selection of the seed for the cabbage crop is 
most important in order that the strain or type of head 
desired may be produced. 

Planting distances vary with the variety of cabbage 
grown. Early varieties may be set as close as fifteen by 
twenty-eight inches, the later sorts should be set farther 
apart up to twenty-four by thirty-six inches. 

Soil. Cabbages do best in the heavier, cooler kinds 
of soil, plenty of moisture being of great importance for the 



62 



MARKET GARDENING 













03 

u 



u 



s 

o 

u 






CROPS 63 

successful growing of this crop. The ground should be well 
prepared before planting cabbages. 

Cultivation. Cultivation should Ijegin as soon as the 
plants are set in the field and continue as long as the 
spreading plants will permit. 

Harvesting. The time of harvesting depends upon 
the size of heads desired. The grower is largely influenced 
by the market conditions. Small heads may often be cut 
to advantage, particularly if the cabbage are sold by the 
head; however, it seldom pays to cut small heads for sale 
by the liarrel. 

The heads are usually gathered by cutting them oft" with 
a butcher knife. The outer leaves should be broken down, 
the head pushed to one side and the stem cut close to the 
head. For inmiediate sale, the outer leaves should all be 
removed, but when the cabbage are to be stored, some or 
all of the outer leaves should be retained, ^^'hen stored in 
pits, the stump is pulled with the head and the whole plant 
placed in the pit. Cabbages to l)e stored in cellars are 
gathered with some of the outer leaves on and placed in 
narrow, well ventilated bins. The temperature should be 
kept at 33° F. 

There are a numl^er of types of cabbage grown, the most 
common of which are Wakefield, Flat Dutch, Ball Head, 
Savoy and Red Cabbage. The Wakefield group contains 
the earlier varieties, the other types contain the later 
varieties. 

Fertilizers. Cabbages are gross feeders and need an 
abundance of quickly available plant food for their proper 
development. Fifteen to twenty-five cords of manure per 
acre should l)e ploughed under and a dressing of 1500 
to 2000 i)Ounds of a high grade complete fertilizer applied 
just previous to tlie final harrowing. An application 



64 MARKET GARDENING 

of 150 pounds of nitrate of .soda may be made with 
benefit after the plants have been set three to five 
weeks. 

V. BRUSSELS SPROUTS 

Brussels sprouts require al)Out the same treatment as 
do cabbage. Thcy require a somewhat longer period for 
developnuMit than is required for late cabbage and the plants 
should l:>e set in iVic field at least ten days earlier than the 
late crop of cal)l)age. Brussels sprouts are a hardy crop and 
the main cutting does not occur until late in the fall. In 
sonic localities the cutting continues throughout the winter. 

The little heads develop in the axils of the leaves and the 
crop is gathei'ed as it matures, several caittings being had 
from each plant. The lower leaves should be broken or cut 
off as the heads develop. When the climate is severe the 
plants may l)e lifted and planted in loam or sand in cellars. 
Such a practice is not of general use but is confined to small 
crops oi' for family use. 

The plants should be set the same distances as for 
cabl)age, the ground ])eing rich in (piickly available plant 
food. The sprouts are ready for cutting as soon as of proper 
size. They are usually marketed in small baskets such as 
strawberry baskets. The top layer should be carefully faced. 

VI. CAULIFLOWER 

Soils. Cauliflower can be grown sucessfully on a 
variety of soils. It does best on rather heavy, clayey soils, 
and attains to its highest development in such soils, par- 
ticularly if planted near a large body of water. Low lands 
bordering lakes or the ocean, are very favorable locations 
for growing cauliflower. 



CROPS 



65 




iiG, 27, — Brussels ksprouts. 



66 MARKET GARDENING 

Planting. For the early crop, the seed must be sown 
in hot Ix'ds oi- in a o;reen-housc, about March 1st. The 
seedhngs are transplanted to tAvo inches apart. The soil 
in which the seeds are sown and in which the seedlings 
are transplanted, nnist Ix^ carefully selected so that no damp- 
ing off fungi are introduced. Soil sterilization is sometimes 
resorted to that the soil may be free from diseases. 

Tlie seedlings must l)e grown under the most favorable 
conditions that they may not in any way ho checked; plants 
that have been checked produce small, imperfect heads. 
The plants should not be set in the field until danger of hard 
frosts is passed. Planting distances vary from two l)y three 
to three by three and one-half feet depending upon the 
variety grown and the kind (jf cultivation to be practised. 

Fertilizers. C'auliHower requires an abundant supply 
of cjuickly available plant food. A heavy api)lication of 
rotted stable manure should be ploughed under, and from 
1000 to 2000 pounds of a high grade, complete fertilizer 
should be hari'owed in previous to setting the plants in 
the field. After the jilants are well established, nitrate of 
soda at the rate of 150 to 200 pounds per acre, should be 
sown along the rows, or broad casted, two or three times 
during the growinp; season. 

As soon as the heads l;)egin to form, the outer leaves 
should be drawn together over the head and tied with raffia 
or string. This is done to protect the head from rain and 
sunlight, in order to jiroduce clean, white heads. 

Harvesting. Cauliflower may be cut at any time after 
the heads are of sufficient size to supply the demands 
of the market or consumer. The heads should be cut low 
enough and with enough stump so that they will have a 
layer of leaves surroimding them. The leaves are trimmed 
off even with the head or a little beyond it. The leaves 



CROPS 67 

serve as a protection for the heads in shipment and hand- 
ling. 

Cauhflower is marketed in l^arrels, bushel boxes and 
crates. 

VII. CELERY 

Planting. In the North, the seed for the early crop 
should be sown from March 1st to March 15th. The seed 
should be sown in flats containing finely prepared soil well 
filled with humus, the seed being very small, and the seedHngs 
not strong enough to push through soils that will pack with 
watering. As soon as the plants are about one inch high, 
they should be transplanted to two inches apart each way, 
in flats containing rich soil well supplied with humus. 

Seed for the late crop may lie sown in the open as soon 
as the ground can be prepared in the spring. 

Distance. The distance between plants in the row 
in tlie field is from fovu' to twelve inches, depending upon 
the variety of celery grown. The early or smaller sorts may 
be set closer than the late or winter varieties. 

The distance between rows varies with the varieties and 
the manner of blanching the celery. 

Early celery that is to be blanched by staking boards, 
or heavy paper, against the plants, may be set in rows 
twenty-four to thirty inches apart. Late celery that is to 
be blanched, or partly blanched, by banking with earth, 
should not be set in rows closer than four feet, that there 
may be sufficient soil to plough up to the plants. 

Planting. The i)lants should not be set in the field 
until dangcn- of hard frosts is passed. Mature plants will 
stand slight freezing with little danger, particularly if covered 
with soil, but if the plants are severely frosted their keeping 
quality is impaired. 



68 



MARKET GARDENING 





















Q, 
'73 



Cm 

"3 
U 

bC 
C 

'3d 

bC 

Q 



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CROPS 69 

A good plan for planting early and late celery is to set 
the two kinds in alternate rows two feet apart. The early 
celery is to be blanched with boards, or heavy paper, staked 
against the plants. The early celery is harvested before the 
late celery needs much banking, leaving the late celery in 
rows four feet apart. 

Fertilizers. Celery is a heavy feeder on nitrogenous 
fertilizers, and applications of at least 25 cords per acre of 
rotted manure should be made for this crop. A complete 
high grade fertilizer, containing 4-8-10, should be applied 
at the rate of 1500 to 3000 pounds per acre previous to 
planting. Nitrate of soda should be sown along the rows 
at the rate of 200 pounds per acre at intervals after the 
plants are well established. 

Cultivation. The ground should be kept thoroughly 
cultivated from the time that the plants are set in the field 
until the time of harvest. Celery requires large quantities 
of water, and unless there is a sufficient normal supply, 
irrigation must be practiced to insure a good crop. 

Harvesting. Celery is ready for harvesting as soon as 
sufficiently blanched, so long as the plants are of sufficient 
size. The plants may be dug up with a spade, as in Fig. 28, 
or ploughed out, or dug with a small tree digger which 
straddles the row as shown in Fig. 29. The tree digger is 
very effective in harvesting celery on a big scale. It loosens 
the plants, cutting off only a small part of the roots, and does 
not break the stalks as is usually the case when the plants 
are ploughed out. 

Preparing for Market. The roots are trimmed off 
to a wedge shape, the unblanched or broken stalks are 
stripped off, and if the plants are small, several of them are 
tied into a bunch. Celery should be thoroughly washed 
before bunching or packing for market. 



70 



MAEKET GAKDENI^G 













,.,,-'J^g 




^Sk 




«a^H 




V. t jf^H 


, -*y 


■' ?^IHh 


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. 'S 




CROPS 71 

Blanching. As has been indicated, celery may be 
blanched by banking with soil, or by staking l)oards, or heavy 
paper along the rows. Earh' celery cannot often be success- 
fully blanched by banking with soil, l)ut must be blanched 
with boards or paper. Blanching must begin in warm 
weather, and banking with soil at this time will cause the 
celery to rust. The lumber used for l)lanching should be 
good, straight boards one foot wide, ten to twelve feet 
long. The boards are placed against the plants and drawn 
together at the toj) and held in position by staking, or by 
forcing stiff, heavy pieces of wire, l)ent into the shape of a 
hairpin, down the outside of the boards. Recently, a 
heavy grade of paper, similar to prepared roofing, has l)een 
on the market, cut one foot wide and in varying lengths. The 
cost is about $15.00 per thousand feet. The papei- also is 
held in place by using heavy wire hairpins, and is con- 
sidered equal to l)oards for blanching. It is easy to 
place in position, and can be rolled up and stored in a small 
space in the fall. 

Late celeiy is blanched, or partly l)lanched, in the field, 
by banking with soil. The soil may be ploughed up to the 
plants with a plough or a wing cultivator. A celery banker 
is an effective implement to use in ploughing the soil up to 
and against the plants. It has a wire guard that forces the 
tops back and holds them in place until the soil has been 
pushed against the plants. 

Storing. Celery to be blanched in storage is onl3' 
partly blanched in the field. The plants are lifted with most 
of their roots, and after the broken and crooked stalks are 
stripped off, the plants are placed in cellars, pits, or any 
building where the roots can be set in moist soil and the 
temperature kept low. Just above the freezing point is the 
most desirable tempei'ature. The plants should be set as 



72 



MARKET GARDENING 




CROPS 73 

closely together as possible, the roots being covered with 
soil. The plants should be held in place by staking up 
boards and setting the plants against them. It is a good 
plan to leave an alley six inches wide every ten to twelve 
feet, to provide good air drainage. The air surrounding the 
plants should be kept moist, and if the plants become too 
dry, water the soil, being careful not to wet the plants more 
than is necessary. Celery will continue to grow and to 
blanch in storage if the temperature is kept a few degrees 
above freezing, 

VIII. CUCUMBERS 

Soil. In the lighter soils, cucumbers will produce 
earlier, but in the heavier soils the bearing will be heavier 
and over a longer period. The soil should be thoroughly 
cultivated before planting the seed. 

Planting. The seed should not be planted until danger 
of frosts is passed. A plan followed by some growers is 
to plant early and make successive plantings a week apart; 
all plants not required are afterwards cut out with a hoe. 

The seeds may be planted in hills or in drills, the distance 
between hills being four by five to six by six feet. Plants 
in the drill are thinned to twelve to sixteen inches apart. 

Fertilizer. The soil should be well manured before 
ploughing, and just previous to the last harrowing before 
planting, 1000 to 2000 pounds of a high grade, complete 
fertilizer should be applied. 

The cucumber requires potash and phosphoric acid to 
insure fruitfulness; a 4-8 10 fertilizer is well adapted to 
this crop. 

Harvesting. When cucumbers are grown for pickles, 
the picking should begin as soon as the fruits are of the 



74 



MARKET GARDENING 





a; 



■7* ; .-i^SBL/'Wi^" 



s.^^. •'"^•-^'^ 



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ffi 



CROPS 75 

desired size. For slicing, cucumbers should not usually be 
gathered until at least six inches long. Whether the cucum- 
bers are grown for pickles or for slicing purposes they should 
be gathered at least twice a week to secure uniformity in 
the size of the fruits. 

Cultivation. Cultivation should begin as soon as the 
plants break the ground and should continue as long as 
possible without too great injury to the vines. 

IX. DANDELION 

Planting. The dandelion is a hardy crop and may 
be planted early in the spring or in the early fall for spring 
cutting. When grown in the fall, the seed should be sown 
early enough so that the plants will be nearly full grown by 
the time hard freezing weather occurs. It is desirable to 
mulch lightly with straw, although mulching is not necessary 
for the successful wintering of this crop. 

Soil. The leaves are the edible portion of this plant 
and the ground selected for dandelions should be rich and 
friable. The seed should be planted in rows sixteen to 
eighteen inches apart, and when planted in the rows for 
growing to maturity the seedlings should be thinned to at 
least six inches apart. The seed may be planted in a seed 
bed and the plants transplanted as desired. 

Harvesting. Fall grown dandelions are ready for har- 
vesting as soon as the season opens in the spring. They 
may be cut with a knife by hand or by the use of a sharpened 
shuffle hoe as shown in Fig. 31. The plants should be care- 
fully washed and packed in bushel boxes or baskets for 
marketing. 



76 MARKET GARDENING 



X. EGG PLANT 

Soil. Tlio lijihter soils only are adapted to the growing 
of egg i)lant, heavy soils Ix'ing too cold for this vegetable. 
Tiie soil should l)e rich in humus, should be deep, and 
should have a soutliei'n exposure to insure warmth. 

Starting the Plants. The egg plant must be started 
under glass, to l)e ready for the field l)y early June. The 
seed should be sown in flats, or a good seed bed, about the 
middle of March and the seedlings should be pricked out 
to two by two inches. The tenipei'ature must be kei)t high, 
not less than 05° F. at any time. The plants nuist maintain 
a steady grt)\vth; if checked in any way the yiekl will be 
far short of normal. 

Planting. The plants should not be set in the field 
until the ground is thoroughly warmed. The distance 
between j)l;uits should l)e t \\(.) by three to four by fom' feet. 

Fertilizer. A libei'al sujiply of niti'ogen is necessary 
for the (juick growth of the plants. The soil should be ricli 
in humus; at least 20 cords to the acre of rotted manure 
should be ploughed under. An ajiplication of 1000 to 2000 
pounds per acre of a high grade, complete fertilizer should 
be made and harrowed in previous to ])lanting. A top 
dressing of nitrate of soda, at the rate of 200 pounds per 
acre, may be made after the plants have become well estab- 
lished. 

XI. HORSE-RADISH 

Desirability. In old-fashioned gardens, horse-radish 
was considered one of the essential vegetables and its pop- 
ularity still exists, the ground-up roots mixed with vinegar 
being much relished as a sauce with cold meats and shell 
fish. In the home garden, horse-radish is usually grown in 



CROPS 




K 



ffi 






78 MARKET GARDENING 

a corner, or beside a fence out of the way, where it is allowed 
to grow at will. 

Planting. Coniniercially, this croj) is grown ciuite ex- 
tensively in some sections. The method of propogation is 
to plant tlie small side I'oots with a dibble. Any piece of 
root, an inch or more long, will produce a plant and root of 
good size. The most desirable size root for planting is a 
piece the size of a lead pencil, four to six inches long. 

Horse-radish may be grown as a main or as a companion 
crop. When grown as a main crop, the I'oots are set in rows 
twenty-four to thirty inches a])ai-t, and the roots set ten to 
twelve inches a|)art in the row. Hoi'se-radish and early 
cabbage make excellent companions and are largely so grown 
in the Eastern states. The cabbage and horse-radish being 
set alternately in the row, the cabbages mature and are out 
of tlie way so that the hors(»-radish has the land to itself 
during the latter part of the season. 

Harvesting and Marketing, The roots are ploughed 
out in the fall and the to|)s are tiinmied off. The roots are 
then buried in moist sand to await manufacture into sauce. 
The larger roots ai'e grountl uj), the smallei- loots being 
.saved for propogation. Some growers sell the roots while 
others grind up the roots antl bottle the product. The 
market is limitetl for horse-radish, but, in favorable locations, 
it is a profitable croi:). The yield varies from three to five 
or six tons per acre and the price varies largely with the 
season, the ciuality of the roots and the demand for them. 

XII. LETTUCE 

Soil. Lettuce may be grown successfully in most 
soils, if well supplied with rotted manure and liberally 
fertilized with high grade, chemical fertilizers, flight .sandy 



CHOPS 



79 



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80 MARKET GARDENING 

soils that liavp had heavy (h'cssiiijis of manure are best 
a(hipte(l to p;r()\ving this crop. 

Starting the Plants. Lettuce ina>- he lians|)laiite(| 
or grown to maturity \vhei'(» sown. For transplanting, the 
seed siiould be sown eight to ten weeks before tiie plants are 
to l)e set in the field. The seed should ])0 sown in fiats or 
in a seed bed and the seedlings should be grown un<l(n' rather 
cool conditions. 

Planting. The plants may be set in the field as soon 
as the ground can l)e gotten into shape in the spring. 
The plants should not be set less than a foot apart each way 
in the field. In hot beds oi- cold frames, the distance is 
usually nine b>' nine inches. 

Fertilizer. Heavy api)licatious of rotted manure should 
\)V ])loughed under. Lettuc(> does vei'V well, howevei', 
if rather fresh manure is used. In any event, for l)est results, 
the soil should be well filled with humus. An application 
of lOOO to 2()()() pounds of a high grade complete fertilizer 
should \)v made and harrowed in pre\ious to planting. Top 
dressings of 200 pounds of nitrate of soda to the acre should 
be made at inteiAals, after the plants are well estal)li:'hed. 

Season. Lettuce is a cool \';ealh(M' crop and s'.iould be 
grown only in the spring and fall for heading |)urposes. 
The plants will stand several degi'ees of fi'cezing w^ith no 
harm, if they have ])een well hardened before setting in 
the fiehl. 

Harvesting. Lettuce is conmionly gathered l)y pull- 
ing U]) \hc plants, which ai'e then taken to the packing 
shed and thoroughly washed, after which the roots are cut 
off, smoothly, just below the lowest leaves. After washing 
and tiimnung, the plants are put into crates, baskets or 
boxes, for shipping to market. 

Varieties. There are two general types of lettuce; 



CROPS 81 

head lettuce and loose leaf, f)r non-lieacllng lettuce. What 
variety .shall be grown is a (juestion to be decided by the 
market demands. Tennis Ball and the numerous strains 
of this variety are generally grown for head lettuce. Grand 
Rapids and other loose leaf varieties are grown for loose 
headed lettuce. Cos Lettuce is an excellent kind rapidly 
coming into favoi-. It is an upright grower with a compact 
head. The leaves are crisp and tender, and possess a fine 
flavor. 

XIII. MUSKMELON 

Soil. Muskmelons may be grown successfully on a 
variety of soils, but the lighter soils, well filled with humus, 
are preferred. Climatic conditions are apparently of more 
influence than soils on this crop, the muskmelon not stand- 
ing frosts. Hot days and warm nights are very favorable 
for its rapid development. Care must be had that sufficient 
water is available at all times as a lack of moisture is sure 
to cause weakened plants and fruits of small size. In the 
West, where alkali is present, irrigation must not be too late 
or the flavor of the fruit will be hurt. 

Planting. Plant the seed in the open only after all 
danger of frost is passed. To secure the earliest results, 
successive plantings at intervals of a week may be made, 
and the undesired plants may be pulled or hoed out. 

A plan followed Ijy many growers is to start the seed in 
pots or small baskets, not over four weeks before the time 
for setting the plants in the field. The plants are grown in 
hot beds or green-houses, and the temperature during the 
last week is kept as nearly as possible the same as that 
prevailing in the field. 

The plants are carefully removed from the pots or baskets 
with all the earth in which they have grown, care being taken 



82 MARKET GARDENING 

that the ball of earth is broken or disturbed as little as 
possible. Plants started early will produce marketable 
fruits a week to ten days ahead of their normal season. 

Planting distances vary from five by five to six by seven 
feet. The common practice is to plant six by six feet. Do 
not make hills; level culture is preferable. 

Picking. For a local market, the fruit may be allowed 
to remain attached to the vines until fully ripened. For 
long shipments, the fruit .should l)e gathered as .soon as 
it may be separated from the vine. As ripening occurs, 
the stem gradually loosens its attachment to the melon, 
and when fully ripe, it will often become detached because 
of the weight of the vine alone. 

Fertilizer. Stable manures are the best sources of 
plant food for the muskmelon, the plants doing best in 
soils containing an al)undance of organic matter. Care must 
be taken not to fertilize too heavily witii nitiogenous fer- 
tilizers. An excess of nitrogen causes large growth of vine 
at the expense of fruitfulness. 

A high grade, complete fertilizer should be applied at 
the rate of al)out 1000 pounds per acre, just before 
planting. 

XIV. ONIONS 

Soil. Rich bottom lands, composed of fine alluvial soil, 
are especially desirable plots in which to grow onions. 
Muck or peat soils also give excellent yields of onions, and 
large areas of such soils are now used for the production of 
this vegetable. The lighter or sandy loams are very de- 
sirable for onion growing if they contain plent}' of organic 
matter. Clay or silt soils are not desirable because of 
their tendency to bake and pack after the seed are sown. 



CROPS 



83 










84 MARKET GARDENING 

The soil should 1)0 very thorougiily propared. Fall plough- 
ing is univcM'sally practiced in onion growing sections. 

Planting. The hulk of the onion crop is produced 
from seed sown in the spring. Sowing should begin as soon 
as the ground can be gotten in proper condition. The seeds 
are sown with a hand drill in rows, twelve to sixteen inches 
apart, when hand cultivation is practiceil. For horse cul- 
tivation, the rows should be twenty-four to thirty inches 
apart. A small well-trained mule may be used to cultivate 
in rows as close together as eighteen inches. 

The amount of seed to use pen- acre will depend upon 
whether the land is favorable to the growth of the seedlings, 
the season and thc^ (luality of the seed. The seed should 
always be tested to detcM'mine its viability. When good 
seed is used and the I'ows are fourteen inches apart, four 
pounds of seed ))er acre should he sufficient. 

Early onions ar(> grown from sets, which may be planted 
in the fall or spring. Tre(^ onion s(>ts may be planted in 
the fall. Sets grown from seed sown very thick, so as to 
produce very small bulbs, should be plant<^d in the spring. 
The sets i)lanted in the s])iing should be ]ilacetl in the 
ground as soon as it can be gotten into shape for planting. 
Fall planted sets should be |)ut out four to six weeks before 
hard fi-eezing weather. 

Sets are planted for bunching onions, or for the pro- 
duction of early mature (anions. Bunching onions are also 
grown from seed. 

Cultivation. The cultivation should begin even before 
the seedlings ap])eai-, and should continue throughout 
the growing season. The cultivation should be shallow 
so as not to distui'b 1li(^ onion roots, whic!) are close to 
the surface. 

Onion cultivation is carried on almost entirely by hand 



CROPS 85 

labor. At the first weeding, the surphis seedHno;s should 
be removed so that the plants will stand about two inches 
apart in the row. Hand-wheel hoes, Fig. 34, cither single 
or double- wheel, are necessary for cultivating onions grown 
in narrow rows. 

Onion Sets. Onion sets are produced by sowing seed 
very thickly on the ground not very rich nor too well 
supplied with moisture. The seedlings have to compete 
so severely with one another and against unfavorable con- 
ditions, that the bulbs never attain to any great size. As 
soon as the tops begin to turn yellow, the sets are harvested, 
dried and topped. 

Multiplier or Perennial Tree onions produce sets on 
their tops. These are used the same as sets grown from 
seed. As has been indicated. Perennial Tree onions are 
very hardy and may be planted in the fall, six to eight 
weeks before hard freezing weather sets in. After the 
ground freezes, the sets should be covered with a light 
mulch of straw or strawy jnauure. 

Harvesting. Onions for Inmching, should be pulled 
as soon as tlie Inilbs are of sufficient .size. The number 
of plants to the bunch will depend upon the size of the 
plants and upon market reciuirements. 

Dry onions should l)e allowed to ripen until the tops 
die down before being pulled. The general practice, how- 
ever, where large areas are to be harvested, is to begin 
pulling the onions as soon as the tops are yellow. The 
onions are pulled and thrown into a windrow. The onions 
are allowed to dry, or cure, in the windrow for several days, 
or until the tops are dry enough to easily be twisted off. 
They are then ready for topping, grading, sacking, and 
storing. 

Onions in storage, require cool, dry conditions. The 



86 



MARKET GAKDEMNG 




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CROPS 87 

temperature should not drop below 32°, about 35° being 
the best temperature to maintain. 

Transplanting Onions. The Spanish type of onions 
are profitably grown l)y transplanting seedlings that are 
six to eight weeks old. The seed may be sown in a hot 
bed or green-house. The seedlings should be kept topped 
to about four inches, to pi'oduce strong plants. Before 
setting in the field, the plants should be cut back to about 
three inches, and the roots trimmed off. The plants should 
be set not closer than four inches in the row in the field. 

Varieties. The Danvers Yellow Globe, and the South- 
port, Red, \Mhte and Yellow Globe, are the favorite 
varieties to grow from seed in the North. The Prizetaker 
is the favorite for transplanting. The globe onions do not 
transplant profitably. 

Fertilizers. Stable mamu'es are valuable sources of 
plant food for onions, if the manures are previously com- 
posted and are applied only when I'otted. Manures con- 
taining coarse material should not be used. The onion is 
a shallow rooted vegetable and rec^uires an abundance of 
quickly available plant food. Chemical fertilizers are, 
therefore, very generally used in growing onions. High 
grade, complete fertilizers, containing at least 4% of nitrogen 
should be used. The fornuilas used by different growers 
vary considerably, but in most cases the nitrogen and potash 
elements are high. A fertilizer containing 5% nitrogen, 
8% phosphoric acid and 12% potash, should be applied at 
the rate of 1000 pounds to 2500 pounds per acre, depending 
upon the condition of the soil. A top dressing of nitrate 
of soda, at the rate of 150 pounds per acre, may be applied 
after the plants are four to six inches higli. 



88 MARKET GARDENING 

XV. PARSNIP 

Soil. Sandy loam is best adapted to the growing 
of parsnips. Heavy soils tend to produce roots irregular 
in shape and with numerous fibrous roots. 

Planting. The seed should be sown in drills as soon 
as the ground can be gotten into sliape in the spring. 
The rows should V)e sixteen to twenty inches apart and the 
plants four to seven inches apart in tlie row, depending 
upon the richness of the soil and the size of the roots desired. 
The whole season is rec|uired to mature this crop. 

Harvesting and Storing, 'fhe loots are dug out in 
the fall and the tops cut off .ubout one inch above the 
crown. The roots are then ready for storing. In digging 
the roots, it is a good plan to plougli along one side, or 
both sides of the row, ploughing away from the plants. 
This leaves the roots partly (^xposed and easily dug. 

The roots may be stored in pits out of doors, or in 
cellars. If stored in a cellar, t he roots sliould be kept buried 
in moist sand to prevcMit tlieir shiivelliiig. 

Parsnips are hardly and may be left in the ground over 
winter. The claim is often made that freezing improves 
the Cjuality. 

XVI. SALSIFY 

This vegetable, because of its flavor, is generally known 
as " oyster plant." Its cultural requirements are the same 
as for the parsnip. 

XVII. PEA 

Soil. The pea does well on a variety of soils if 
well supplied with humus. The lighter soils are best for 
early results, but for the main crop and lie:i\y yields, heavier 
soils are best. 



CROPS 89 

Planting. The pea is a hardy, cool-loving plant and 
the seed should be sown as soon as the ground can be 
worked. The seed is usually sown in drills eighteen to 
thirty inches apart, for a garden crop. As a field crop, 
as when grown for canneries, the rows may be thirty-six 
inches apart, or as is often done, the seed is sown with a 
grain drill and the crop cut with a mowing machine. The 
depth of planting varies from one to two inches, depending 
upon the season and the soil. The earlier and cooler the 
season the shallower should the planting be, while if the 
season is advanced, or the soil light, the planting should 
be deeper. 

Fertilizers. The pea requires but little nitrogenous 
fertihzer, but should have a libei-al application of a high 
grade, complete fertilizer, containing 2% to 3% nitrogen, 
8% of phosphoric acid and 10*^7 of potash. Rotted 
manure should be applied at the rate of 20 cords per 
acre and ploughed in. 

Varieties. Peas are divided into two general types: 
smooth peas and wrinkled peas. The smooth peas are the 
hardier of the two, and are adapteil for use as a field crop 
or a garden crop. The wrinkled peas are less hardy than 
the smooth peas, have finer flavor and are not adapted for 
field purposes. 

The varieties may be divided into two groups, com- 
prising the dwarf sorts and the tall or bush sorts. 

Gregory's Excelsior, Gradus, Nott's Excelsior, and 
Thomas Laxton are excellent early varieties. 

Telegraph and Stratagem are fine late varieties. 

Harvesting. Peas are ready for harvesting as soon 
as the seeds are large enough to "shell" easily. The garden 
varieties are always gathered by hand. Two or more pick- 
ings are required, and care nmst be exercised that tlie peas 



9U MARKET GARDENING 

do not become too liard before being gathered. Half bushel 
and bushel baskets and bushel boxes are connnonly used 
for marketing peas. 

The tall varieties may be supported in a number of ways, 
brush being most commonly used. The l)rush should be 
cut as long as desired and thrust into the ground along the 
rows. Wire trellis, or chicken wire, may also be used for 
supporting the vines. 

XVIII. RADISH 

The radish is one of the most popular and easily grown 
vegetables that we have. In the eai'ly season particularly 
is the radish in great demand. As a maiket garden crop 
the radish is almost always grown as a filler or companion 
crop, but in the home garden the radish is generally given 
a first choice when the collection of seed for planting is 
being selected. 

The radish is a hardy crop and gives (juick I'eturns. It 
is a cool-loving plant and may be planted as soon as the 
ground can be prepared in the spring. As a greenhouse or 
hot bed crop it is a universal favorite l)ecause of the ease 
and quickness with which it is l)rought to an edible size. 

Seed. The seed of the radish should l)e carefully 
selected, only the largest and plumpest seed should be planted. 
Small, inferior seed will produce a crop of small size and 
inferior (luality and shape of roots. The seed may be 
cleaned by running it through a fanning mill or l)y screening. 
The openings in the screen should be ./.^ of an inch in 
diameter. Plants from the largest antl best seed can be 
matured in from twenty-one to thirty-six days; plants from 
small seed will take from six to fourteen days longer to 
reach maturity. 



CROPS 91 

Planting. The seed should he covered to a depth 
of from one-half to three quarters of an inch. It is desirable 
for quick germination that the ground be thoroughly pre- 
pared and have a sufficient amount of moisture. If planted 
by hand, the seed should be dropped about one-half inch 
apart. Machines are properly gauged for planting radish 
seed if set as directed. The soil should be firmed over the 
seed after planting to bring the moist earth in direct contact 
with the seed. To obtain the finest quality, the radish 
should be grown as rapidly as possible and with plenty of 
moisture at all times. 

Marketing. Radishes are ready for pulling as soon 
as they reach sufficient size. The plants are tied into 
bunches of from six to ten plants each according to size 
and the season. They are then carefully washed and 
packed in bushel boxes or baskets for the market. 

The Scarlet Globe and strains of this variety are the 
most profitable and popular sorts to grow, 

XIX. RHUBARB 

Soils. Rhul^arb can be grown profitably on most soils, 
if sufficient humus and plant food are supplied. For early 
results rhubarb should be planted in sandy loam, with a 
southern exposure. 

Propagation. Rhubarb can be propagated from seed, 
but this procedure is not very satisfactory because the 
seedlings seldom come true to the type desired. The 
best method is the ch vision of the old roots; each piece of 
root with an " eye/' or bud, will produce a plant of the 
desired qualities. 

Planting. The best results are obtained from plant- 
ing in the spring. The soil should previously have been 



92 MARKET (JARDENING 

well supplied with manure. The usual planting distance 
!> four by four feet, and the eyes or ei-owns should be 
covered to a depth of six to eight inches. 

Fertilizers. Rotted stable manure is the best source 
of plant food for rhubarb. This should be supple- 
mented by an application of 1000 pounds or more of 
a high grade, complete fertilizer, containing 6% of the 
nitrogen element. Nitrate of soda should be applied at 
intervals during the growing season, at the rate of 150 to 
1200 pounds per acre. Some fertilizer should l)e applied 
after the pulling season is over, in order that the roots may 
store up plant food for the next year's crop. Mulching with 
lotted manure is cjuite gcaierally practiced and is very 
i)eneficial. 

Thorough cultivation should be practiced throughout the 
growing season, and irrigation is advisable unless the natural 
supply of moisture is sufficient. Rhul)arb requires large 
([uantities of water and no other crop gives quicker response 
to irrigation. 

Harvesting. Tlie sttUks aie pulled as soon as they have 
attainetl sufficient size, and after tlie leaves are trinnned 
off close to the stem, the stalks are tied into ])andles of 
several stalks each. 

Forcing. Rhubarb is forced in the winter time l\y 
bringing the large roots into a warm, darkened room or 
cellar. The roots arc set in soil and kept sufficiently moist. 
The roots should be dug out in the fall and stored in a cool 
place. Freezing is claimed to be an advantage. When 
foi-ced in the dark, fine large stalks, surmounted with very 
small leaves are produced. The roots are worthless after 
liaving been forced. 



CROPS 93 

XX. SPINACH 

Spinach is one of the easiest grown and most popular of 
the salad crops. It is unexcelled for boiling. A home 
garden is not complete without it. 

Planting. The seed may be planted in the spring as 
soon as the groimd can be prepared, or planting may take 
place in the early fall. Spinach is a cool-loving plant and 
does best only during the cooler parts of the season. 

The seed should be sown in drills sixteen to eighteen 
inches apart. When fall sowing is done to produce a crop 
for the spring harvest, it is a good plan to make beds some- 
what higher than the general level of the ground, that the 
plants may have proper drainage. The Ijeds should be wide 
enough for six or more rows of spinach. As freezing weather 
approaches, the j^lants should be covered with straw or 
strawy manure, to jjrevent successive freezing and thawing 
which would tend to lift the plants and destroy them. As 
soon as the spring opens, the nuilch should be removed. 

Harvesting. The plants are usually harvested by cut- 
ting the tap root just under the surface of the ground. 
This is easily accomplished with the use of a sharpened hoe. 
The outer leaves should be removed and the plants washed 
before packing for market. For a local market, the bushel 
box is a favorite package, but for shipping to a distant 
market, the barrel or bushel basket should be used. The 
barrel should be covered with burlap but the basket should 
have a slatted cover. 

Fertilizers. The ground must be well fertilized that 
the i:)lants may make a maximum growth. Heavy appli- 
cations of rottefl manure and a dressing of a complete 
high grade, chemical fertilizer should be made previous to 
sowing the seed. 



94 MAKKET GARDENING 

XXI. SQUASH 

Soil. A woll fertilized, inediuin to liu;ht soil is the 
most desirable in whieii to ^row squashes. The success 
in growing the crook-neck or patty-pan typo of scjuash is 
dependent to a large degree upon having a soil that will 
warm up early in the spring. This is no less true with the 
Hul)l)ard scjuash and other varieties that reciuire a long 
gi'owing season to attain maturity before frosts in the 
fall. 

Planting. The general practice is to plant in hills 
from four by four feet, for the crook-neck and patty-pan 
types to ten l)y twelve feet for the Hul)bard squash. The 
seed should not be planted until danger of frost is i)assed 
and tlie ground has Ix'come suthciently warmed. 

To obtain earlic^st lesults, the s(>ed may l)e ])laiited in 
[)f)ts or baskets in a hot bed or gi'(>en-liouse, four to six weeks 
l)efore being set in the open. When transplanting, gi'cat 
care nnjst be taken that the ball of earth is distui'bed as 
little as possibl(\ 

Harvesting. The sunnner scpiashes iiiv harvested as 
soon as they attain sufficient size to becoine salal)le. 

The fall and winter kinds should ])e allowed to ripen 
on the vines before being harvt'sted. Tlu> s(iuash should be 
gathered with all of its stem intact; the vine sliould be cut 
about an inch each suU^ of the stem. Unless the weather 
is too severe, the squashes may be left piled in the fiidd 
until the stems have become tlun'oughly dried l)efore being 
placed in storage. 

Storing. The storage must be warm and dry, the 
temperature being held at 50° to 55° F. It is customary 
to have stove or furnace heat in scjuash store-houses. The 
sqviashes keep l)est - 'mmi stored om ventilated shelves, piled 



CROPS 95 

not more than three deep. The liottom shelf should be at 
least one foot from the fioor to provide good air drainage. 

XXII. SWEET CORN 

Soils. Sweet corn can be grown successfully in any 
fertile soil, but the best results are obtained in newly broken 
sod land, or in sod land ploughed in the fall previous to 
growing the corn. 

Planting. The earliest sweet corn brings the high- 
est prices, the grower should therefore select such lands 
as warm up earliest in the spring, and plant early, making 
successive plantings until danger of frost is past, when the 
undesired plants are hoed out. A succession of crops are 
obtained by planting such varieties as will give succession, 
or by planting one variety of corn at intervals during the 
season. Sweet corn is usually planted in drills thirty inches 
to four feet apart. The distance between plants in the rows 
should vary with the variety from ten inches for the smaller 
growing kinds to a foot or more for the larger growing kinds. 
When grown in hills, two to three plants in a hill are 
sufficient. 

Transplanting. Sweet corn can be transplanted suc- 
cessfully and profital)ly if handled properly. The seed 
should be planted in pots or l)askets not over four weeks 
previous to setting in the field. In transplanting, great 
care must be taken not to disturb tlie roots. Two plants 
in a three-inch pot are as many as should be grown Each 
pot should provide plants for one hill. 

Fertilizer. Rotted stable manures applied at the rate 
of 20 cords to the acre are very desniible sources of 
plant food for corn. Chemical fertilizer containing 4% 
nitrogen, 8% phosphoi'ic acid and 10% potash should be 
applied at the rate of 1000 to 2000 pounds per acre. 



96 , MARKET GARDENING 

Cultivation. Frequent aiul thorough cultivation should 
be practiced, horse-drawn implements ])eing used until too 
much damage is done the growing crop. 

Varieties, (iolden Bantam, Crosby and Red Cob Cory 
are good early varieties. Country Gentlemai\ and Sto- 
well's Evergreen are the most popular and desirable of the 
later varieties. 

XXIII. TOMATOES 

Soil. The tomato can l)e grown successfully on most 
soils, provid(Ml they are fertile and well drained. (3n 
the lighter soils, such as sandy loams, the earliest fruits 
are produced, but the fmit usually is not so firm and meaty 
as when it is produced on heavier soil. The yield is usu- 
ally somewhat heavier on the lighter soils than it is on the 
heavier soils. 

Planting. For (>arliest results, the seed must be sown 
under glass about the first of March. The seedlings 
may l)e transplanted into fiats being set three by three or 
four l)y four inches, or they may b(^ set in pots or berry 
baskets. A three-inch pot is suitable for the first trans- 
planting. As the plants become larger and the roots begin 
to fill the pots, they should be shifted into larger pots. This 
procedure should be i-epeated until the conditions are right 
for setting the plants in the field. 

The first bud cluster should be pinched out. This will 
cause the plants to branch out and the formation of several 
bud clusters in place of the one removed. If tlie plants are 
well handled and have not l)een allowed to crowd or become 
spindly, they may have l)lossoms or small tomatoes on them 
when set in the field. If the trans]ilanting is done care- 
fully, and the plants have been projierly hardened, the 
blossoms and small fruit will continue to de\elop normally. 



CROPS 



97 




u 



-.■■^■^^S"- :>..^ 



98 MARKET GARDENING 

Fruit from such plants can ho had in forty to forty-five 
days. 

Fertilizers. The soil should 1)0 lihorally supplied with 
rotted manure, ploughed under and thoroughly incor- 
porated with the soil by discing. A high grade, complete 
fertilizer, containing 4% nitrogen, 8^'o phosphoric acid and 
10% potash, should be applied at the rate of 1000 to 2000 
pounds per acre just previous to setting the plants in the 
field. 

Training. In general practice, the plants are set three 
by three to four by five feet apart, and the plants are 
allowed to rest on the ground as they Ijocome larger and 
bear fruit. Pruning the vines and training them to stakes 
is sometimes ]ii'acticed in the field. When the plants are to 
1)0 staked and i)runod, thoy should be sot oigliteon inches 
apart in the row. A stake is ])rovi(lod foi- each plant and 
the plant is kept pruned to a single stem. After a sufficient 
number of clusters of fruit have been set, the toj) of the 
plant is cut olf. As the lower leaves beconu- old and spotted 
they should be pruned or entirely cut off. It is an advan- 
tage to shake the plants every day when they are in blossom 
to aid in setting the fruits. 

Harvest ng. Tomatoes, whether grown for a local or 
distant mark(>t, should be gatheicd befoie becoming 
entirely ripe. At the height of the season the fruit should 
be gathered every day. 

Tomatoes are mai'keted in small s])liiit l)askets holding 
five to ten ixjunds each, tdso in bushel boxes and l)askets. 



INDEX 



Asjjaragus, 53-56. 
blanching, 55. 
cultivation, 54. 
fertilizers for, 55. 
harvesting, 55. 
l)lanting, 53, 54. 

Bacteria, 10. 
Beans, 56, 57. 

cultivation, 56, 57. 

fertilizers for, 57 

harvesting, 57. 

planting, 56. 

supports for, 56. 

varieties, 57. 
Beets, 57-61. 

fertilizers for, 59, 61, 

marketing, 59. 

])lanting, 59. 

soil for, 57. 

storage of, 61. 

transplanting, 59. 
Blanching, 55, 67, 71. 

asparagus, 55. 

celery, 67, 71. 
Brussels Sjirouts, 64. 
Bushel baskets, 50. 
Bushel box, 48. 

Cabbage, 61-64. 
club foot, 16. 



Cabbage, cultivation, 63. 

fertilizers for, 63. 

harvesting, 63. 

planting, 61. 

soil for, 61. 
Catch Croi)S, IS. 
Cauliflower, 64-67. 

fertilizers for, 6(i, 

harvesting, (W). 

planting, 66. 

soils for, 64. 
Celery, 67-73. • 

blanching, 71. " ' 

cultivation of, 69. 

fertilizers for, ()9. 

harvesting, 6S, 69, 70. 

marketing, 69. 

])lanting, 67. 

storing, 71, 72. 
Combination tools, 3, 8. 
Companion Cropping, 20, 62,, 79 

97. 
Composting, 10, 11. 
Crates, 48. 
Cucumbers, 73-75. 

cultivation, 75. 

fertilizers for, 73. 

harvesting, 73, 75. 

soil for, 73. 



Dandeli(jn, 75. 



99 



100 



INDEX 



Dandelion, harvesting, 74, 
Dibljers, :H). 
Disc harrow, 5. 
Dust niuk'h, 5. 

Egg IMant, 76. 

fertiUzer for, 76. 

])lanting, 76. 
Exi)osure of (lardens, 2. 

Fertilizers, 9-18. 

cheniical, 12-15. 

(•omiii(>rcial, 11. 

coinplete, 15. 

(•oiii|)(istiiig, 10. 

lidt manures, 10. 

kinds, '.t. 

stable manure, 9, 10, 11. 
Fire fanging, 1 1 . 

Gardens, 36-42. 
Germination, 25. 
conditions for, 27. 

Horse radish, 76-7S. 

harvesting, 78. 

planting, 78. 
Hot beds, 19-23, 36. 

care of, 23. 

construction, 21, 22. 

heating, 19. 

location, 19. 

manuH' for, 21, 22. 
Hunnis, 10. 

Irrigation, 32-36. 
amount of, 35. 
furrow, 34. 
methods of, 33, 34, 35. 



Irrigation, requirements, 32. 
sprinkler system, 34, 35. 

Labor, 2. 
Legumes, 16, 17. 
Lettuce, 78, 81. 

fertilizers, 80. 

harvesting, SO. 

l)lanting, 80. 

soils for, 78. 

varieties, 80, 81. 
Lime, 15, 16. 
Location of market garden, 1 

Manure, 9, 10, 11. 

composting, 10. 

effects of, 17. 

green, 16. 

kinds of, 9, 10. 
Market, 1. 

Moisture reciuirements, 32 
Musk melon, 81, S2. 

fertilizer for, 82. 

harvesting, 82. 

planting, 81. 

soil, 81. 

Nitrate of soda, 13. 
Nitrogen, 12-14. 
Non-legumes, 17. 
Nodules, 16. 

( )nioiis, .82-87. 

cultivation, 83, 84 
fertilizers for, 87. 
harvesting, 85. 
planting, 84. 
.sets, 85. 



INDEX 



101 



( )nions, soil for, S2. 
varieties, 87. 

Packing, 49-52. 

crates and baskets, 50, 52. 
Parsnips, 88. 
Pea, 88-90. 

fertilizers for, 89. 

harvesting, 89, 90. 

planting, 89. 

soil, 88. 

varieties, 89. 
Perennials, 36. 
Phosphoric Acid, 14. 
Planting, 28. 
Ploughing, 5. 

under, 17. 
Pota.sh, 14. 

Radish, 90, 91. 

planting, 91. 

marketing, 91. 

seed, 90. 
Rhubarb, 91, 92. 

fertilizers, 92. 

forcing, 92. 

harvesting, 92. 

planting, 91. 

propagation, Oi. 

soils, 91. 
Rock phosphate, 14. 
Root crops, 43. 

Salsify, 88. 
Seed, 24-29. 

germination of, 25. 

planting, 28. 

quality of, 24. 

selection of, 24. 



Seed, sowing, 28. 

testing, 25, 27. 

viability of, 24. 
Seed beds, 27, 28. 
Seed drill, 7, 8, 42. 
Seedlings, 25, 26. 

transplanting, 29, 30. 
Smoothing harrow, 7. 
Soil, 1, 2. 

acidity, 7, 8, 42. 

of market garden, 5. 

l)re]niration of, 15. 
Spinach, 93. 
Squash, 94. 

storing of, 94. 
Storage, 38, 43, .52. 

temperatiuT, 48. 
Storing, 

beets, 61. 

cabbage, 38, 45, 46, 49, 68. 

celery, 45, 46, 47, 71. 
in crates, 51. 

onions, 45, 46, 85. 

parsnii)s, 44, 88. 

root croi)s, 38, 43, 143. 

squash, 94. 
Sweet Corn, 95, 96. 

cultivation, 96. 

fertilizer, 95. 

planting, 95. 

varieties, 96. 

Thomas Slag, 14. 
Tools, 42. 
Tomatoes, 96-98. 

fertilizers for, 98. 

harvesting, 98. 

planting, 96. 

soil for 96. 



102 



INDEX 



Tomatoes, training, 9S. 
Transplanting, 29, 30, 31. 

Vegetable garden, 36-42. 
eultivation of, 38. 
home, 36-38. 
l)lace of, 41. 
plan of, 37, 



Vegetable garden, Plots, 39. 
jjreparation of, 39. 
school, 38-42. 

Water, 3. 

Wheel hoes, 7, S, 42. 
Wind breaks, 2. 
Wrapping in i)aper, 52, 



THE WILEY TECHNICAL SERIES 

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EDITED BT 

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OIRABD COLLEGE 



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